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Languedoc RoussillonWe’d made a quick foray through Southwestern France five years ago and were quite impressed with the magnificent Gorges du Tarn and our drive along the cliff-top road above, but that was only our first taste of the rich and diverse Languedoc Roussillon.We’ve now spent more than a year living in and exploring the region, which also ranges from the spectacular and lush Pyrenees, to the breezy Mediterranean coast, to rolling green hills dotted with villages and chateaux, to rocky promontories topped with fortresses of the martyred Cathar sect. Terraced vineyards quilt the mountains and plains and produce delicious varieties of wines. Fruit trees fill the markets with fresh cherries, peaches, and apricots. From the scads of artisanal cheeses, sausages, and comforting cassoulets, an earthiness to the food and culture reigns with the fresh Mediterranean seafood. Southwestern France is said to be the “next Provence,” though not as heavily traveled or as touristy—in other words, cheaper though just as beautiful. I’d specifically envisioned living in a fishing village, and since Collioure (see below) was big on the Matisse agenda, this is where we settled for Jim to write the book. Spain is a skip away from the Pyrenées-Orientals. South of Spanish Barcelona to French Perpignan is Catalan country, and Catalonian history and culture reverberate everywhere you go with its language, food, dance, music, and the espadrilles worn by all. The people are proud of their heritage and show it at every opportunity. Comparing Languedoc Roussillon to Provence, I’ll say both areas are incredibly beautiful. The differences lie in the countryside visions. In Languedoc-Roussillon, we were delighted with the regal Pyrenees, cascading vineyards, the fantastic Cathar enclaves, the grand cities of Montpellier and Toulouse, the silently slinking Canal du Midi, and the sapphire sea. Provence will also always hold a special place in our hearts. We adore the many hilltop villages, lush sunflower and lavender fields with the scent of herbs wafting through the air, the exquisite markets, Aix, Avignon, and the Rhone, Luberon and Alpille. Provence is more sophisticated while Languedoc is more down to earth. As far as the numbers of tourists go, we were in Gordes in April with hardly a tourist to be found, while the season had already started in Collioure. The comparison of expense? I don’t know. At least the Mediterranean Coast of Languedoc is very expensive, and the country mas (farm houses) sell for hundreds of thousands. More restaurants possibly cater to the average tourist in Languedoc, but we’ve found food to be expensive almost everywhere we go.
LourdesHaving left St-Jean-de-Luz, we zipped along the main highway toward Toulouse, but a short 25 kilometers away was Lourdes, and if you believe in the chance of being miraculously healed, St. Bernadette’s grotto is your kind of place. Receiving a miracle had nothing to do with Matisse, unless you count his artistic and financial success compared to the lives of most artists. Who knows? Maybe he did make the trip. Who wouldn’t want to be healed? We decided to take the opportunity to wash ourselves in restorative waters that might take our troubles away. The countryside was fresh and green with sheep and horses grazing in the pastures. The snow-capped peaks of the Pyrénées loomed above the town of about 15,000 that has 40,000 hotel rooms. What!? Of course, Lourdes’s fame is well known, and I’d seen the Hollywood movie St. Bernadette, with Jennifer Jones, more than once. But who knew Lourdes had 5,000,000 visitors a year, the most-visited Christian pilgrimage site in the world? Does this make it Mecca for the followers of Jesus? The setting of the town is charming, though Bernadette changed its ambience forever with her visions of the Virgin Mary and by digging up the miraculous spring that soon became renowned for its healing powers. As we strode up the Esplanade des Processions, banners waved and life-sized cutouts of crippled people greeted us. Jim said it was like being at Disney World, and he certainly had a point with the castle-like Basilique du Rosaire, with its enormous gold crown at the end of the walk. We circled around to the famous grotto where you can see the curative spring bubbling forth. There are also convenient faucets lining a rock wall. We washed our hands and dabbed our faces with it. I sprinkled it on my head and suggested Jim do the same, hoping that negative thought patterns that held us back could be mended. (Actually what I said was, maybe this will get some of that crap out of your head—just as I wished for my own.) Afterwards, we lit a huge candle for our loved ones and said prayers. I also bought a few smaller ones to take with us for our own private ritual. As you might imagine, souvenir shops line the narrow rues, and I bought plenty of them. Everyone I know could use a little healing, and this seemed to be the mother lode of it. In fact, there are plenty of Bernadette sites to see, and if you want to get the whole shebang, you’d need a whole day. Or maybe spend a night. But as far as I’m concerned, the real beauty of Lourdes is captured in the Pyrenees surrounding it as well as in the crystal waters pouring forth, and Saint Bernadette’s spirit certainly must live on there as well.
CarcassonneOur drive across southwestern France from the Basque lands to the Languedoc-Roussillon was sublime, with the Pyrénées on our right, and castles and villages sprinkled throughout the verdant countryside. Toulouse had been our destination, but there were no rooms in any of the inns, so we opted for Carcassonne as a base. What a bit of good fortune! The wonder of Carcassonne is the enormous and beautifully restored fortress, the cité, which is the largest in Europe and a trip back in time to the Middle Ages. It is an amazing monument, a lesson in history and a playground for your imagination. We stayed several days here and did some touring in the area before the summer crowds arrived. Carcassonne is also a delightful day trip—if you’re in the area, have a relaxed look around and a tasty lunch. LodgingWe prefer arriving in a town before dark, but we found our Best Western hotel, Le Donjon, in pitch black. It is perfectly lovely and a moderately-priced hotel (once a 15th century orphanage) in the middle of the cite. Some rooms are wrapped around a tranquil courtyard garden while others have a view. The windows of our spacious room opened onto the garden, which was glorious. Again, I’ll say that we have found the Best Western group to have some terrific properties in great locations all over France. This is one of them. 63 rooms. Hôtel Le Donjon—Les Remparts The fine and swanky Hôtel de la Cité owes its architectural style and heritage to the fact that it was the bishop’s palace. Think opulent, refined, quiet, and everything that goes along with that, including a garden with pool. Expensive. Hôtel de la Cité Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsWe were out for our evening stroll/search for a place to have dinner, and not far from our hotel we found the adorable Le Vieux Four. It was cozy, casual, and their bubbling, crusty-topped area dish cassoulet (casserole of white beans, duck or goose, sausage, and pork) was exactly the dinner we wanted. Earthy comfort was ours along with a bottle of red wine. This seems to be a little chain in Carcassonne, but we didn’t care. Le Vieux Four For A DrinkFor an elegant drink or to check out the hotel, slip into the Hôtel de la Cité’s bar. It’s very frou-frou and mysterious with a hidden entrance in the bookcase. If you care about cost, ask for specialty liquor prices. I ordered an Armagnac, and when the bill arrived, it rang up for 27 Euros. I was quite surprised. Hôtel de la Cité Beth’s BetsI found a wonderful little gift shop with Provencal skirts, linens, bags, etc. as well as other bijoux. I was looking for a present for baby Mary Ruth and purchased the happiest and most fashionable frock with kerchief a baby could want. The owner couldn’t have been more helpful. l’arbalétrier, la cité When the season is in full swing, gift shops abound, though many are filled with the same things you see everywhere else. When my daughter Blair was visiting, she and I wandered into a boutique that at first glance seemed to cater to the Tammy Fae Bakers of the world. Once we really looked at the merchandise, however, we found some unusual and distinctive glassware and jewelry made by the two men who share this space. I bought several birthday and graduation gifts and was pleased with the purchases. Gianni and Vincent are the style-makers here. Their space is Souffleur de Réves Need To KnowVisitors park their cars outside the cité in well-marked lots unless they’re staying in a hotel within the cité’s walls. The tight gateway of the Porte Narbonnaise is the only car entrance. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
ToulouseToulouse is the lively capital of the region known as the Midi –Pyrénées, which one often reads about in the travels of painters and other artists. Matisse especially spent time here since Madame Matisse’s grandparents lived in the city. Toulouse is also known as La Ville Rose because of the color of the bricks on the Italian-influenced mansions and buildings. As the light changes throughout the day, the bricks’ chameleon color may look pink, orange, or red, giving the whole city a glow. Today Toulouse thrives with industry and university students, but in the 1220’s Simon de Montfort ravaged it repeatedly in the Albigensian crusade to destroy the power and legacy of the tolerant Count Raymond whose dominion it was. Toulouse was a location for the movie, D’Artagnan, and the grand Place du Capitole shimmers with candlelight in it. LodgingFor a quiet location, the Hôtel Des Beaux Arts is an elegant and intimate hotel of 20 rooms on the Garonne River. Full hotel amenities are available, including 24-hour reception and limited-hour room service. The neighborhood is lovely, as is this chic hotel. Hôtel Des Beaux Arts The Park Hotel is a couple of blocks from the Place Wilson and near the Place du Capitole as well as the other major sights of Toulouse. Touring, shopping, and dining are all easy excursions. It is inexpensive with a basic and functional modern décor, sauna, and Jacuzzi, but can be noisy. Park Hotel Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsThe Place du Capitole has several cafés and restaurants along its arcades
and is a bustling spot and great location to people watch and get the feel of
the area. For a smart brasserie, try Le Bibent which has a terrace on the Place
and a 1920’s dining room. The Grande Café de l’Opéra
is the place to go if your mood is upscale. You’ll find it inside the Grande
Hotel de l’Opera. A popular spot for Saturday lunch is la Gourmandine restaurant. Good people-watching and food. The Victor Hugo parking garage is right by it. la Gourmandine restaurant We had read there was a competition between Carcassonne and Toulouse over their cassoulets. In our opinion, Carcassonne wins hands down. For A DrinkAgain, the Place Wilson and Place du Capitole are both worthy of choosing a café for a drink. The Place Wilson has a pretty park in the middle, and the Place du Capitole is usually teeming with people. Our favorite is the latter though after being there several times, I might choose a smaller venue. Le Bibent is a historic monument with Belle Epoque décor and a comfortable terrace to gawk at what’s going on in the animated Place. Le Bibent TransportationRoad construction in the city made it hard to get around when we were there. I think this is due to expansion of the metro, which means the construction will go on for a while. My advice is once you get to the center, follow the signs for parking garages and pay to park. Victor Hugo is a good one. Then go to the Office of Tourism, get a map, and walk. Toulouse has an excellent airport to go anywhere. - top -This is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516 To Market, To MarketOn the first Friday (how the dates are chosen), Saturday, and Sunday of each month is a good brocante and antiques (second hand goods—furniture and collectibles) market on the Allées J. Guesde by the Jardin Royal and off the Grande Rond. It is worth stopping by if you like flea markets and are in the area. ShoppingVirgin Megastores are our favorite source for CDs, DVDs, and media-type purchases. The one in Toulouse is handily on the corner of the rue d’Alsace Lorraine and rue LaFayette, very close to the Office of Tourism. Just a few doors down from the Virgin Mega, the Olivier Confiseur-Chocolatie elegantly beckons with its clever window displays of festively-wrapped candies. The first time we stopped in for the famous crystallized violets of Toulouse, we found the master candy-maker herself, an aged madame, wrapping her colorful foil around giant chocolate fish. There’s a profusion of violet delicacies and luscious chocolates that are oh-so-artfully packaged. Olivier Confiseur-Chocolatier We found an elegant and high-end antique shop with a commode we longed for. Thérése Abou Mireille Benibre As you’re wandering the rues of Toulouse, there are many attractive boutiques, wonderful food shops, and wine cellars to peruse. Beth’s BetsThe Languedoc, enhanced by art and culture, was tolerant and progressive long before Paris. Two books to find out more are: Eleanor of Aquitaine by Alison Weir and The Perfect Heresy by Stephen O’Shea. On LocationAmong the sights in Toulouse is the grand Romanesque Basilique St-Stenin which was a stop along the way for the pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela. And in fact, it is modeled after St. Jacques de Compostela. The mother church of the Dominicans, Les Jacobins, was built due to the influence of the Spanish St. Dominic who founded the order in Toulouse as he was trying to stop the influence of the “heretical” Cathars. It is purely French Gothic and holds the bones of St. Thomas Aquinas. Need To KnowWe needed some time to find our way around and get the feel of Toulouse. Don’t just go to the major tourist destinations. Take the time to stroll. Go to the Pont Neuf and see the River Garonne. Search out the small Places.
PerpignanPerpignan is another university city with a youngish feel. Though not nearly as large as Toulouse, it is the commercial center for the Pyrénées-Orientals administrative department of France. After King Jaime I of Aragon created Majorca for his son in the 13th Century, Perpignan was home to the counts of Roussillon and kings of Majorca. It bounced back and forth between Spanish and French rule until the 1640’s when the French cemented their control. But like all of French Catalonia, the Catalan spirit reigns supreme. Many Catalan events and traditions are held throughout the year, and a summer arts and music festival draws an interesting line-up of performances. Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsFor a charming spot and delicious, authentic food, L’Arago is hard to beat. The specialty is the incredible entrecôte (rib steak) with its creamy secret sauce, but if you like rabbit, try their rich, garlicky dish. There is an outdoor terrace, upstairs dining room with murals, and a balcony that looks down on the square. L’Arago is popular, lively, and moderately priced. Plus, it’s open every day. L’Arago Restaurant/Brasserie/Pizzeria/Bar If you’re starving, Casa Bonet is instant gratification. Their menu is a choice of tapas, Catalan specialties, and a buffet where you can eat as much as you’d like. On top of that, they have the endless grilled meat service with personal stop-and-go signs for diners to indicate if you want more. The restaurant is big and with a terrace outside. If you want to try a variety of Catalan dishes, this is your opportunity (though it’s not a cheap lunch). Casa Bonet For A DrinkThe Quai Vauban has several cafés where you can sip a drink by the canal, enjoy the pleasant view, and watch Perpignan street-life. To Market, To MarketThe flea market Marché des Puces is held every Sunday from 8 am to 1 pm. Avenue Palais-des-Expositions. ShoppingThe big grocery/everything stores like Auchan, Carrefour, and LeClerc are here. There is also a Galleries LaFayette across from the Castillet and other interesting boutiques on the old rues. On LocationMany of the forays I’ll mention in the Collioure section are even closer to Perpignan. Collioure and the Côte Vermeille are only 30 minutes away. Another nice drive is to Bages, Thuir, and Castlenou, the last of which is a pristine and beautiful fortified village packed with artists and their creations. The attractive Mediterranean city of Narbonne is also easily accessible. The Canal de la Robine with barges tied along the sides flows through and adds to the charm of the town center. The Cathédrale St-Just-Et-St-Pasteur is lovely, and a section of the Via Domitia (oldest of the Roman roads) can be seen in the Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville. The Palace of the Kings of Majorca was built as the sufficiently regal home for the Majorcan kings. It is worth a visit. Need To KnowIf you need something beyond the basic in the Pyrénées-Orientals, Perpignan is the place to find it. It’s a central location from which to take day trips throughout the region. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
CollioureCollioure was a simple fishing village until Matisse, Derain, and the other Fauves began painting their bright, wild colors here. Today the town is famous as the birthplace of the Fauves and for its charm and authenticity in a land where seaside resorts can be snotty and chi-chi. From Spring until Fall, tourists come in droves for the rocky Mediterranean beaches and strolls through narrow rues of brightly colored houses with flowered balconies or along the stone path by the sea. Outdoor cafés abound, and shopping is de rigueur at popular boutiques. In the season, the bay is full of sailboats, and you might just walk around a corner to find a jazz band playing for a crowd or a Catalan orchestra mesmerizing proud residents who are dancing the Sardana. Late Fall and Winter, the village is quiet and many businesses are shut which is sometimes more appealing for us. Collioure is nestled between vineyards covering the foothills of the Albéres and a fortified harbor on the sea. Lovers of such innate beauty find solace being in Collioure anytime. Like a siren, Collioure calls artists, sailors, and searchers to come to her Catalan shores. LodgingLes Templiers is the real deal—hotel, restaurant, and bar. Jo Jo Pous is the current owner, but it was grandmother, Marie, who started the place in the late 1800’s—a bar called Café des Sports. His parents built the place up and all the artists came here, spent time, drank and hung out, felt at home. The Pouses provided a haven of support and good spirit for the artists who walked in their door. It’s still a bastion of family energy with their and Collioure’s history covering the walls. The bar is the perfect saloon, and the hotel is charming and comfortable like you were a guest at a gigantic weekend party in a shabby chic house. M. Pous’s daughter, Mané, runs the excellent restaurant, and son, Jean-Michel, the hotel. Two thousand works of art were given to this Catalan family over the years. Paintings and drawings cover every inch of the walls—so many they cannot all be hung—but the priceless pieces had to be taken down 25 years ago when three Picasso drawings were stolen. The price is unbelievably reasonable. Les Templiers** To escape the hub-bub in town, a short walk up a hilly rue takes you to the quieter Hôtel Madeloc. The lobby is spacious and unfussy with the owner’s grandmother’s art covering the walls. Some rooms have small balconies, while others have terraces to sun upon. The simple but nice chambres furnished with vintage bamboo look out upon residential Collioure and hillsides covered with vineyards. A lovely pool and garden complete the amenities. Breakfast is served in a room adjoining the lobby or delivered to your room. Moderately priced. Hôtel Madeloc*** Hôtel Casa Païral is a secluded hideaway in the center of Collioure. We had seen the sign forever before we walked down the alley to find this hotel with its lush garden and pool. It was as if we’d wandered into a secret no one wants to tell, and an air of refinement is evident. The reception is decorated with antiques, and from the pictures I’ve seen, the rooms can be large and old-fashioned or airy and modern clad in tile and decorative wrought iron. Either way I would be happy. Moderate prices. Hôtel Casa Païral*** The Hôtel Relais des Trois Mas is the plush boutique accomodation in town. It is located on a private cove just up the road from the faubourg and Port d’Avall, and the view of Collioure across the azure water is divine. The rooms are elegantly appointed with views of the sea. You can relax by the pool or on the rocky beach below if you’d rather swim in the Mediterranean. An outdoor terrace provides a venue for the perfect romantic dinner or stylish lunch if you don’t feel like fighting the village crowd. Expensive. Hôtel Relais des Trois Mas**** Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsOne of the first nights Jim and I were in Collioure, it was cold and rainy and we wandered into Restaurant Le Zouave. The tapas menu was lengthy, and we didn’t know quite what to order. The owner suggested a variety for us, and we were wowed with the excellent anchovies, palordes (a mollusk that looks like a mussel), escalivade (onions, peppers, eggplant roasted with garlic and olive oil), and more. After that first visit, we were hooked and have been back many times. The food is expertly seasoned and cooked, and the prices are reasonable. There is also a full menu that we always say we’re going to try but can never manage to get beyond the tapas. There is a hip feel to Le Zouave. The music is good. The dining room is cozy, but in good weather the terrace with its arbor is impossible to resist. In season, this can be packed from about 8:00 pm on. Inexpensive. Restaurant Le Zouave Mané Pous manages Les Templiers restaurant with aplomb. The food is a tasty combination of authentic Catalan and casual sophistication, and the savory aroma of the dinners entice even when you’re just ambling by. Templiers still has the best and cheapest cup of coffee in town, and maybe the only one that comes with a chocolate. Moderate. Les Templiers There comes a time when you’re dying for a good ole American cheeseburger, and Vita Croq has them nailed. Thick and juicy with the right kind of cheese (which is questionable when you’re ordering American/Mexican food in France), they stand up to your favorite burger in the States even if the setting is French café. It’s a little corner spot with sandwiches, salads, and pizzas. Inexpensive. Vita Croq For A DrinkWith its aged wooden boat of a bar and maroon banquette, Les Templiers is the perfect saloon any way you cut it. Stop by for a coffee or a glass of wine. The regulars play dominoes in the afternoon. If you don’t make it to Les Templiers while you’re in Collioure, you haven’t been a part of the local scene. Les Templiers Our favorite bar/restaurant to enjoy a drink and gaze at the sea is Copacabana. We’ve sat there on cold Spring nights or sunny Summer mornings and loved it all the same. The coupes of champagne are big and cold and the seafood platters look grand. This is enjoying the French seaside at its simple finest. Copacabana TransportationIf you’re traveling by train, there is a station in Collioure that is especially convenient to Spain. A trip to Barcelona only requires one change. If you’re using Collioure as a base or spending a lot of time in this rich area, a car is a must. This is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516 To Market, To MarketI’ve been to bigger and better markets, but this one has good vendors for all the necessities, vegetables, fruits, cheese, sausages, rotisserie meats, breads, pastries, spices, market bags and baskets, and pottery. The Sunday morning market is larger, but there’s a Wednesday market as well. Try some of Eric’s breads and Tarte Marie’s sweet or savory confections. For a big shopping trip, the closest store is Super U in Port Vendres. ShoppingThere are many art galleries in Collioure, and in the tourist season artists are lined up on the waterfront painting and selling their work. The gallery (and framing shop) with the most interesting vision is Galerie Profils, where a fine array of original paintings and drawings hang. The artful eyes of owner Monique Diderich and her charming colleague, Robert, are apparent in the collection offered, as well as in the prints and cards of your favorite artists, also available. Their framing work is beautiful and well priced. FYI: Monique’s playful drawings of women are also for sale. They’re not unlike Matisse or Picasso with their freeness of hand. Galerie Profils Le Comptoir d’Hortense has an upscale selection of gifts, decorative items, and table arts. Le Comptoir d’Hortense A good artisanal pottery source is Majolique, a single dealer in three locations. The patterns vary from store to store. Majolique If you are a lover of Matisse and would like posters, postcards, or stationery of his work, The Fauvism office, Le Chemin du Fauvisme, has a good collection to choose from. Le Chemin du Tauvisme The wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon are plentiful and delicious, from wonderful rosés to reds, whites, and the locally-popular sweet wines called Banyuls, Muscat, and Maury. Americans haven’t acquired this taste for the sweet as the French have, but stop by a cave (wine cellar) and try them. There are wonderful flavors to discover and a range of experience to gain with the right combinations of food and drink. There are many good caves with knowledgeable employees to help. One of our favorites is the Domaine La Tour Vieille. Maxime is the man in the know at their cave in town. He taught us a lot. If you are a wine lover or even liker, take a drive to one or more of the regional vineyards to degust. Pack a picnic or plan to stop for a nice lunch. Anchovies are famous in Collioure. They’re on the menu of every restaurant and are sold at the market and in stores devoted to the little fish. Even if you don’t think you like them, try them here. You may want to take a jar home. Beth’s BetsThe huge, snow-capped mountain on the horizon when you’re driving to and from Perpignan is Le Canigou. Its very presence commands attention, and many artists have painted the magnificent peak. There are enchanting daytrips that will give a closer view of the mount and a marvelous look and feel for the Pyrénées. Here are some of them: 1. We were delighted with our outing to the 12th Century Prieuré de Serrabona, which sits on a high rocky spur in the middle of a stunning bowl of Pyrenean mountains and valleys with the Aspre and Conflent Rivers bordering. It is artistically built of slate and rose marble with carved griffins, lions, and eagles, and a Mediterranean garden surrounding. The ambience is beauty and serenity. The garden would provide a divine picnic opportunity sans a lot of wine due to the winding, high roads. 2. The Abbaye de Saint-Michel-de-Cuixá was the home of a monastic community beginning in the 10th Century. First dependent on the Counts of Barcelona, it was ceded to France in the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659. The monks were thrown out by the National Assembly during the French Revolution, and St. Michel was almost demolished. It wasn’t until 1919 that it started being reclaimed, and today Benedictine monks continue the monastic life there. In 1907, most of the cloisters was sold by antique dealers and is now at The Cloisters Museum in New York, which is another heavenly position. 3. Perhaps the most spectacular but hardest to reach is Abbaye Saint-Martin du Canigou, which is built on a wild mountain top. There are two ways to reach it: 1. Park in Casteil and hike up the mountain road, which takes a good 45 minutes and is a tough trip; or, 2. Buy a seat in a Jeep that scarily drives up and down the same path. (Call the Office of Tourism in Vernet-les-Bains—04.68.05.55.35—for information.) Once you arrive at the fortress-like abbey perched in the clouds, God must be very near. To go down the path of religious structures of a different sort, Cathar country is close by in the Corbieres, and I highly recommend a visit. In medieval history of the Languedoc, the story of the massacre of the Cathar movement is a sad one. Members of this sect were viewed as heretics by the Church and Pope, and the Albigensian Crusade was begun to eradicate them. Twenty thousand people were killed at Beziers alone, and throughout the horror, these heretics were burned alive. The fortresses I’m recommending seem unreachable, aeries for eagle people who fly in and out. Too bad they couldn’t have. Two are reasonably reached from Collioure. The Château de Peyrepertuse is a monument to the Cathar faith, as is the closeby Château de Quéribus. Lunch at the Auberge du Vieux Moulin in Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse is the perfect accompaniment to the day. It takes only 30 minutes to reach Céret, a charming town in the classic French sense as well as the Catalan. The town is framed by the Pyrenees and cherry, almond, and peach orchards and is in the region known as Vallespir. Our first impression on a gray, rainy day wasn’t great. After we spent more time in Céret, we became lovers of this village. We’ve seen a terrific Dufy exhibit at the Musée d’Art Moderne, which is definitely worth a stop, and were entranced with a wonderful evening of flamenco during a summer festival. Céret (and Collioure) have bullfights which I have to say after our one sojourn is nothing I ever want to see again. How many magnificent bulls can one see slaughtered by prissy men? On LocationThe Chemin de Fauvisme is a designated route of the actual spots where Fauve artists Matisse and Derain painted their well-known scenes of Collioure. These historic moments are marked by the reproductions of the paintings themselves, and you can get the map in the Fauvism Office. The painting of Collioure that you see over and over again by every artist who comes here (almost ad nauseum) is of the bell-tower of the Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges by the Boramar Beach. It is a compelling landmark of Collioure, but step inside the church to take a look around. It is quite ornate, and musical events are often held here. If you walk around the church to the beach on the other side, there is a walkway to the chapel on the sea and from there to the lighthouse. The view is expansive. A stroll around the immense Chateau Royale that divides the two ports of Collioure is another must for the Collioure experience, and is as enjoyable as ambling through the narrow rues. On the Port d’Avall side of town, the faubourg, the Musée d’Art Moderne Collioure is housed in a lovely old villa. Behind it, a path climbs through an olive grove to the ancient windmill that is another dominant landmark. Need To KnowI can’t say this often enough. Wherever you go in France, stop at the local Office of Tourism. The tourism employees are immensely helpful and have beaucoup information to give. There are maps of artisanal cheese, sausage makers, vineyards, and more that they can give you for the whole region. C’est bon! As with many tourist destinations in France, July and August are packed with visitors. If you can come another month, hotel reservations, crowds, and parking will be more manageable. If not, just imagine you are French.
Côte VermeilleWe’d read and heard about the Côte Vermeille, which follows the Mediterranean Coast from Argelés-Plage to Cerbére, the French village closest to Spain. The drive doesn’t take long , and it is a lovely path indeed that hooks up to the stunning Costa Brava in Spain. This outing includes Banyuls-sur-Mer, a charming village that has its own seaside allure and is famous for its regional wine. If you’re hungry, stop and choose a café by the seaside drive to indulge. It’s a bright, pleasant strip to have lunch or a snack. Port Vendres is a real working harbor of commercial fishing and pleasure boats, restaurants by the quay, and there are more varied and bigger stores here than in Collioure or Banyuls if you’re in need of supplies. But for us, neither village held a candle to Collioure as we drove in through the mountains and vineyards to the intimate bay with its citadel and castle floating on the Mediterranean. Narrow cobblestone rues running up and down the hillsides are a piping outlining the old village, whose colorful townhouses stand one after another. The energy is relaxed but vibrant, with the hues, sounds, and smells of the sea (not to mention frying garlic). On LocationA pleasant cultural side trip from Banyuls is the short drive to the Musée Maillol which is 4 kilometers after turning by the Hôtel de Ville. (Signs are well-marked to get there.) Maillol was a well-known sculptor and is respected throughout France. He was born in Banyuls and the small but well-done museum was his farm house before his muse and model, Dina Vierny and her foundation, created the memoriam. Maillol is buried beneath one of his sublime sculptures of Ms. Vierny. The house restoration is lovely, and Maillol’s works are nicely installed. Musée Maillol TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car Need To KnowIf you’re planning a trip along the Côte Vermeille to the Spanish Costa Brava, more than a glass of wine shouldn’t be on your menu. The road twists and turns around the mountain tops, and cars and buses can meet you straddling the middle. |
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Copyright © 2005 James Morgan & Beth Arnold. All rights reserved
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