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Provence
The beauty of Aix-en-Provence is displayed throughout the city in handsome squares, grand mansions, and the gurgle of bubbling fountains. The lovely main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, is lined with shady plane trees and busy cafés, and the rhythm of the city is South of France leisurely mingled with an underlying urban energy generated by the university and its students. The combination works. Aix was once the capital of Provence and has a history of refined culture that is still in evidence. You can’t go anywhere in Aix (or Provence) without being bombarded by accolades to Good King René (1409-80) who was an erudite ruler well-versed in languages, the arts, and science. He led a Golden Age of progress that enriched the arts, agriculture, and commerce. LodgingOn the lovely Cours Mirabeau, the Grand Hotel Negre Coste is an 18th Century hotel with the ambience of shabby chic—37 rooms with antique furnishings and a charming salon. The location couldn’t be better to walk out the door and discover Aix, and guest reception is warm and most helpful. Our special thanks to Ricardo. In fact, the Negre Coste feels comfortable and homey, although there is an edge of urban cool that flows through. We loved it! Moderately priced. Grand Hotel Negre Coste*** For A DrinkIf you’ve ever read M.F.K. Fisher and adore her work as I do, you know she lived in Aix for many years and wrote about it beautifully. Of course, all her books about her life in France are sensuous and fascinating. She lived and recorded her life with courage. She was a single mother in Aix, and when she picked up her daughters after school, they went to Les Deux Garçons for a treat—chantilly for the girls and a whisky for their mother. Something civilized about that. No matter what you order, Les Deux Garçons is a great place to stop and watch the world of Aix as people meander or hurry down the Cours. Les Deux Garçons To Market, To MarketThere are markets every day in Aix from traditional food markets to flowers to a flea market. We caught a craft market on the Cours Mirabeau that was terrific. Check with your hotel or the tourist office for schedules. This is a great place to slip a good market in. ShoppingFor candy fanatics, the local specialty is Calissons which are equal parts of almonds, sugar, and candied melon. On LocationWe added Aix to our itinerary because of artist Paul Cézanne, who was born in Aix and lived and worked there. Matisse bought a Cézanne painting early in his career, and no matter how dire his finances became, he refused to sell it. The Office of Tourism organizes a Cézanne tour. You can also visit his house and studio which has been left as it was upon his death. Seeing an artist’s studio is a glimpse of the creative process. Cézanne house and studio Marseilles, Cassis, and Saint-Tropez are not far away. Need To KnowMusical opportunities abound in Aix, especially in summer. The International Festival of Lyrical Art takes place during the months of June and July. The website is: www.festival-aix.com. The website of the Office of Tourism is: www.aixenprovencetourism.com TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
Just 30 minutes from Marseilles, Cassis is a small fishing port and resort with turquoise sea and harbor filled with boats. Between the two cities, the rugged Massif des Calanques rises from the Mediterranean in sheer white limestone cliffs with blue-on-blue coves snuggled in between them. The whole effect is stunning. Cassis itself is charming with quaint houses and steep narrow rues and was a favorite of the Fauve painters. LodgingWith its incredible view of the Bestouan Beach, the endless Mediterranean, and Cap Canaille, the Mahogany commands one of the best positions in Cassis. We sat on our balcony for hours looking at the sea and watching the colors of Cap Canaille turn blue sea to ochre as the light reflected it. The hotel is across the street from the beach on the quieter side of town which made it perfect for us. We were lucky enough to get a room on Easter Sunday after our scheduled changed. This one faced the garden and was big and lovely with a sophisticated yet rustic Provencal authenticity and superb bathroom with tub. The next day we were moved to a smaller more modernly designed room with the exquisite sea-view. We were exultant in both. Though I preferred the first room, I don’t know if I could give up the sea. The staff was most accommodating. The rates change with the seasons. Moderately Expensive. Mahogany Hotel De La Plage*** Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsLe Jardin d’Émile is located next door and is a hotel partner of the Mahogany. There are only seven rooms in the charming, intimate hotel. It doesn’t have the eagle eye view of the sea that the Mahogany offers, but that’s replaced with the privacy of the garden. The restaurant is a chance to enjoy the garden’s ambience. It is romantic with a cozy dining room and terrace surrounded by tall pines, bougainvillea, lavender, and olive trees. Oh, la la! The Provencal menu is traditional though refined and wonderful. We relished our first meal so much that we returned for another. Moderately expensive. Le Jardin d’Émile Hôtel Restaurant ShoppingAs we wandered through Cassis’ streets, we happened upon a shop that screamed, Come in! The Boutique Bazarettes has a variety of lovely, cool, original, and traditional artisan products that you don’t see everywhere else. There are terrific selections for home and for gifts. Boutique Bazarettes On LocationMake the drive to the top of Cap Canaille. The view of the cliffs, of Cassis, and of the calanques is spectacular. In fact, if it’s not too hot, take a picnic to enjoy the vista even more. Boat trips are available to see the calanques. Need To KnowMake reservations early if you’re planning to be in Cassis from Easter through the summer. As in all the Mediterranean resorts and especially on holidays and weekends, hotels fill up fast. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
I’d wanted to see The Camargue for years. We barely dipped into the region in 1998 but didn’t have time to get any real sense of it. First of all, it is the Rhone Delta which is an enormous plain. Wheat, maize, rape, forage for cattle, and rice are farmed. Vineyards and orchards are cultivated, and salt is produced here and has been since ancient times. The Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue protects the diverse flora and fauna which live in the plains, salt marshes, ponds and lagoons that connect with channels to the Mediterranean. On top of that, the Camargue is French cowboy country. Yes, French cowboys exist and the vast plain looks like you’re in the Wild West. Camargue horses are distinctive. They are descended from prehistoric animals, and their stature is small. Although they are born brown, their coat turns white. They are good-natured and sure of themselves. One sees them everywhere, and there are many stables with guided rides available. The cattle are a distinctive variety, black with long horns, called tareau. The Camargue is close enough to Catalonia to have a Spanish influence from the architectural styles to a tradition of bullfights. The important difference is the bulls are not injured or killed here.
Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is a seaside village and resort that holds a
special place in The Camargue landscape. The name of the town derives from local
legend: After Christ was crucified, Mary Magdelene, Mary Salome (mother of disciples
James and John), and Mary Jacobe (the virgin’s sister), and others were
set adrift in a boat without sails or oars by Christ’s Jewish disbelievers.
Mary Salome and Mary Jacobe’s black servant, Sarah, wept so bitterly that
Mary Salome flung her cape on the water, and Sarah walked across it to join them.
The boat drifted to this shore, and its occupants arrived safely. They built
an oratory for the Virgin, and part of the group left to spread the Gospel. Mary
Salome, Mary Jacobe, and Sarah stayed. Their relics were said to have been found
centuries later. The village is made of white buildings—houses and shops. Beach is abundant, and Camargue specialities are on all the menus. LodgingWe felt like we were at the Ponderosa when we checked into the Hotel de Cacharel, and Ben, Little Joe, and Hoss were going to walk out the door to greet us. It is a privately owned ranch cum hotel—and authentic—set in the middle of sea marshes with flocks of pink flamingoes scattered in the lagoons. Their pink feathers against the blue water is dazzling. We took our luggage over to what really looked like a bunkhouse, a low slung building painted white with hacienda details, a row of rooms. Ours was quite large, and the décor was rustic antique pieces. It was perfect ranch-style. The large bar, salon, and reception are the same with a huge fireplace for winter. I cannot overstate the kindness and generosity of the owner, Florian Colomb de Daunant, and his staff. When my mother died, they bent over backwards to help us. The hotel/ranch also has its own stables with guided rides. Fifteen rooms. Moderately expensive. Hotel de Cacharel*** On LocationThe church in Sts-Maries is a shrine to Sarah and the Marys and is quite interesting. The crypt holds the relics and a statue of St Sarah. During the pilgrimage weekend, gypsies carry her to the sea. The other church reliquaries—including the Marys’ boat—are also part of the procession. The upper chapel houses the relics of the Marys. An old pagan altar is in one of the naves. Need To KnowThe best times to visit The Camargue are spring and fall. Like in the American Mississippi Delta, in summer, swarms of mosquitoes will carry you away. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516 |
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Copyright © 2005 James Morgan & Beth Arnold. All rights reserved
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