 
|
|
|
French Riviera
The Mediterranean climate, beach and sea, lush green palms, and hilltop villages have been drawing the rich and famous to the glittering French Riviera for almost a century. Henri Matisse was captivated as well. The clear light shone in him, through him, and into his art. Jim and I had each paid brief visits here many years ago, but when we began traveling to France together, Paris was our goal—Paris, where our visions of Hemingway and the rest of The Lost Generation loomed. After we branched out to Provence, we were too happy with the Luberon to bother with the coast. We’d heard horror stories about the hordes of tourists and summer traffic. The Riviera was “too done” for us. But this time it was Monsieur Matisse who assigned the Côte d’Azur to our itinerary, and our schedule landed us there during the perfect months of April and May, before the high season with its summer colonies racing up and down the beautiful paths. I was excited about seeing the Riviera again though I didn’t expect to be carried away with it. I say now that I was wrong. Even though it’s a shame the hills are so overbuilt and the people so wall-to-wall, there are explanations for this insanity—transparent light, azure skies, turquoise seas, the sweet scent of flowers and herbs. The French Riviera is, in fact, spectacular. There’s an amazing number of artists’ museums throughout the area. On the other hand, why wouldn’t there be? They all chose this region to paint. (I would still prefer to skip July or August, though I wouldn’t completely rule them out. I’ve recently been hearing a tuneful call from Nice. Come on down to the Jazz Festival, it says, and maybe next summer I will.) NiceOnce Henri Matisse found Nice, he never gave it up. He spent many years painting in the brilliant light that fed his soul, and his spirit remains in Cimiez, along the Cours Saleya, and all around the sea. Nice is metropolitan—diverse, spread out, grand—and caters to sun-worshippers of all ages and means, who also come for the waters of the cool Mediterranean. The immense Baie de Anges is dazzling, with cropping hillsides entrapping it, and the sumptuous architecture and the pastas and pissaladiéres of Niçoise cuisine reflect the city’s heritage with Italy. Nice’s size makes it more difficult to grasp than the charming villages a short drive away, but don’t be put off. Take the time to feel your way into it. In my case, it became one of the French villes that feels most like home. It also makes a good base from which to explore the surrounding area. LodgingOnly a short walk from the old town and beach, the stylish boutique hotel Le Grimaldi was our fantastic home for 10 days. This townhouse hotel has grand Belle Epoque edifices and 46 rooms with contemporary décor and “South of France” ambience. Ours was big and plush, the bathroom beautifully designed with dreamy products. French doors opened onto a balcony, where we could enjoy the pale-yellow light and blue skies, a huge palm tree that reminded us of Matisse and his love for Nice. We witnessed the most amazing rainbow of our lives standing there. The hotel has a cozy lobby bar that transforms into a cheery breakfast room, and petit dejeuner comes complete with eggs, delicious meats and cheeses, and incredible pastries and jams. The table service is most elegant. Afternoon tea is served in two lovely salons. Computers, printer, and high-speed internet connection are available for the business traveler. On top of that, Le Grimaldi’s staff has service down to a fine art that’s efficient, professional, and personal. I dare say there is nothing they can’t do or arrange. Visionary owners Joanna and Yann Zedde have created a beautiful hotel that makes your stay in Nice even more of a pleasure. It was a haven for us. Hotel Le Grimaldi**** Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsLe Grimaldi’s ever-fabulous Françoise was the first of many who recommended Les Viviers to us as one of the best seafood restaurants in Nice. Luckily, it was just two blocks from the hotel. Oh la la! The lobster ravioli, bourride, and grilled scallops were indeed sublime, but what we didn’t expect was the convivial ambiance. The restaurant is elegant yet lively, a sophisticated décor. Our hostess made us feel like we were part of her regular clientele who packed the other tables. Les Viviers has two venues—a restaurant and bistrot. Reservation needed. Moderate to expensive. Les Viviers We walked through a misting rain to find Les Epicureans. It was charming yet modern. The clientele was speaking French, and almost all of them were regulars. We could tell. The whole dining experience was pleasurable—delicious food and drink and high spirits for all. My order of veal liver was perfectly cooked, and our bottle of Bandol incredible. I highly recommend. Moderate to Expensive. Les Epicuriens For A DrinkOne evening after dinner we were nonchalantly ambling back to our hotel with every intention of getting a good night’s sleep. We passed an open door, and the heartfelt voice of Gillian Welch floated out to us. Literally music to our ears, it stopped us cold. We glanced into Le Big Ben and were beguiled by glamorous semi-circular and tufted banquettes of green velvet in the smoky dusky room. That was it. The cocktail list is enormous, the drinks bracing, the music as rocking as the ambience. Le Big Ben To Market, To MarketRestaurants surround the festive outdoor flower market in the Cours Saleya with kiosks of socca-makers sandwiched in between. Once the parading ground of the Nice swells, these days it’s a favorite haunt for all. Go in the morning. The vendors shut in the afternoon, though it’s a happening scene almost any time you amble by. ShoppingHigh ticket stores abound with Côte d’Azur panache for men and women. Both the Matisse Museum and Marc Chagall Museum have great shops for the artists’ works and other supplies for the artistically invigorated. On LocationFor many Matisse-lovers, Mecca is the Matisse Museum in suburban Cimiez right up the hill from Nice. The museum is in an incredible 17th Century Genoese villa painted red and decorated with trompe l’oeil architectural details and windows that absolutely look real. If that weren’t reason enough to make a visit—and it is—the villa is set in the ancient Roman city of Cemenelum. The atmosphere on the whole hilltop is of serenity and beauty, and across the garden at the Musée Franciscain, Eglise et Monastére de Cimiez, the view to the sea is simply stunning. He and Madame Matisse are buried in the monastery’s cemetery. The museum’s collection includes the jazzy cut-outs, paintings, drawings, sculptures, and decorative objects the artist owned. The bookstore offers an excellent array of Matisse cards, posters, etc. Matisse Museum I am also a great admirer of Marc Chagall’s work, and his museum in Cimiez is wonderful. He based the series of paintings shown here on the Old Testament, and they are huge, dynamic, poetical blasts of color and energy that blow back your hair back and whoosh up your dress (am I an art critic, or what!). They are soulful creations of his subject matter. The imagery is archetypal and appear to the senses as Creation itself. Chagall personally supervised their masterful hanging. Musée National Message Biblique Marc Chagall TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
Saint-TropezThe story reads like a fairytale. Once upon a time there was a quaint fishing village in the South of France where the people had lived a quiet life for as long as anyone remembered. The houses were of stone with gaily painted doors, and they looked out upon a beautiful bay of the magical sea that lapped up to shore. One day a golden-haired princess with her court came upon it. She had never heard of this charming village, but as soon as her foot touched the ground, she was overcome with a curious enchantment and couldn’t bear to leave. Word of the exquisite princess and her fascination spread throughout the kingdom, and those who heard the story were entranced and had to discover this magic land themselves. So it went with Bridgette Bardot who came to Saint-Tropez to make a film with Roger Vadim. She fell in love with it, and the world followed her. The quiet port soon became known for beach hunks and babes, wild parties, disco, and glamour. In the heat of summer, the port is packed with the famous and wealthy who stay in magnificent villas, posh hotels, or on sleek yachts. The bay is still beautiful, and the cool blue water is welcoming in the hot sun. The village entices. Its charming silhouette remains while fine design has filled the interiors. The narrow rues are picturesque, with shops galore for earthy Provencal and sophisticated taste. High season hadn’t yet started when we were there, and our weekend was relaxed. We wandered the village in peace. If haughty people abound in summer, we missed them. Our weekend in St. Tropez was lovely. LodgingWe checked into the merely divine Hotel Le Yaca and were graciously met by the kind staff that whisked our ridiculous number of bags to our room. It was luxurious. The bed was as well—comfy and crisp with fine linens—and the bathroom was superb, the products pampering. Luckily, we had a door that opened onto Le Yaca’s oasis of soothing garden and pool, the terrace of the smart restaurant. We could slip out to Eden without walking through the hotel. All the staff were expertly skilled and accommodating, their service seamless and stress-free. If there weren’t so many other amusements in St-Tropez, it would be hard to step out Le Yaca’s door and into the beguiling street where it’s located. Laetitia and François Huret have created a salve for the weary body and soul, and we long to be a guest at Le Yaca again soon. Le Yaca **** Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsLe Yaca’s cozily romantic restaurant complements the impeccable hotel. The decor is intime and elegant as is the ambiance throughout the property. Service is supreme, and the cuisine is luscious. Le Yaca For A DrinkAgain, I say Le Yaca. The bar is oozing with refined yet comfortable élan. There are great old photos of who’s who around town at swell parties. ShoppingI saw several busts of St. Tropez, as in the patron saint, around the village and was drawn to them. It is true that I have a liking for such icons, but there was something even more alluring about this one. I wanted a St-Tropez myself but hadn’t checked out a price. When our concierge said the busts were very expensive, I didn’t pursue it, but this would be a treasure and a real find. Buy a cool white ensemble at one of the many shops in St-Tropez. I saw one that I loved but never bothered to try on. Since then, I’ve searched all over France for a summer-white costume I liked as well but haven’t found one. There’s a lesson in there somewhere. Beth’s BetsIf you’re in St. Tropez (especially in High Season), go with the flow. Enjoy the sophistication, decadence, and high spirits. If you’re not a celebrity, slip on your nerve and become one of the beautiful people. Don’t behave badly but try out your fantasy alter-ego, become someone you’re not at home, or enjoy being the you who’s care-free. On LocationWe were astonished when we visited the Musée de Saint-Tropez, L’Annonciade. It houses a truly amazing collection—one of the best we’ve seen anywhere in France—of Signacs (Paul Signac lived and worked in St-Tropez, and his family still has a home there), Matisses, Vuillards, Bonnards, Braques, Dufys, Van Dongens, and others who defined the Pointillist, Nabist, and Fauvist styles. It turns out to be anchored with 56 pieces of the renowned collection of Georges Grammont, who converted this former chapel into its present occupation and endowed the museum with them. L’Annonciade shouldn’t be missed. Musée de Saint-Tropez For eight euros each, we took a tourist boat ride around St. Tropez bay, and it was worth every centime in pure pleasure to be cruising with the sailboats and yachts on the sapphire Mediterranean on a sun-drenched day. We glimpsed multi-million dollar villas, the filming of a French soap opera, the home of actress Bridgette Bardot, and, in sober contrast, a long black line of villagers in their funerary march down the hillside to the seaside cemetery. The ride is lots of fun and the commentary is also provided in English. Several companies sell tickets on the port. We happened upon a milling crowd including men with fifes and drums. A local restaurant owner explained it was the Bravades, the procession that commemorates the anniversary of the running aground of the boat carrying the head and body of Saint Tropez. The Town Captain and his officers lead the procession, and the villagers follow behind. Actually, this turned out to be the dress rehearsal, but it was such a festive and joyous occasion that Jim and I joined in with the boisterous crowd. I would be happy to plan a weekend there to march along in the real thing the next time. Need To KnowThe summer uniform is white to set off the bronze tan. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
VenceVence was one of the highlights of our fantastic journey in chasing Henri Matisse. It is a chic and wonderful village in the countryside where flowers are cultivated, olives abound, and citrus trees flourish. It is a town of artists, galleries, and delicious Provencal meals. Many other villages, museums, and tours worthy of one’s time are easy drives from here. LodgingVilla le Rêve, the house Matisse called home when he left Nice during the war years, was Jim’s ultimate bliss on our sojourn. We found it incredibly joyful just being there and were lucky enough to stay in Matisse’s room and studio, the place he created many paintings which we adore. The façade of the house is grand, and its jardin is untamed with a secret garden feel, which we found refreshing in an area where properties are often manicured and pristine. The interior of the house was chopped up into smaller rooms for a boarding school some years before. A dormitory-style wash closet is at the end of a long hall though each room has its own shower and sink. The furnishings are unfussy. No telephones or TVs. The kitchen is accessible to all. We were happy. In Summer and Fall, art groups are booked for painting courses and take over for a week at a time. But visits of the house and garden can be arranged and some day courses are scheduled. Studios and the garden can be rented if one would like to enjoy the creative energy the house imparts but stay in more plush accommodations. We could live there! Joëlle Audry is the delightful manager of Villa le Rêve, which makes a visit even more pleasurable. The Matisse Chapel is just across and down the street. Villa le Rêve Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsWe had both a lovely evening of fine food and wine and a tantalizing lunch at Les Templiers. The dinner was first in the elegant dining room, the lunch was two days later on the garden terrace. It was first-rate in every respect. Expensive. I suggest reservations. Restaurant Les Templiers ShoppingAs you might imagine, Vence has many interesting boutiques with the abundance of second-home owners and tourists coming in and out. Beth’s BetsThere are many charming and interesting places to see and drives to take from Vence. The old village of Cagnes-sur-Mer, Haut-de-Cagnes is another artist haven and one of our favorites. Cagnes is also home to the Renoir Museum, Les Colletes, which certainly deserves a visit. It is the house that M. and Mme. Pierre-Auguste Renoir designed and built after saving an old farmhouse and the surrounding property from being developed. They put much thought into the luscious garden that embellishes the grand house, and the tour includes his studio. It is the picture of French country loveliness. Renoir Museum Although we found St-Paul-de-Vence a bit over the top in haughtiness, one has to take a look at the hilltop village. There is also the famous Fondation Maeght, the modern art museum located northwest of St-Paul. The collection is rotated, but the works include pieces by Kandinsky, Bonnard, Giacometti, Braque, Chagall, and many others. Antibes is a delightful village on the Mediterranean. I didn’t see enough of it and would like to go back. The Musée Picasso is a revelation of his work. On LocationMatisse considered his masterpiece to be Vence’s Chapelle du Rosaire or Chapelle Matisse. For that reason alone, it’s important to see. It is not your typical Roman Catholic chapel by any stretch of the imagination. The outside looks like a Provencal house, and the inside is pure though unexpected Matisse. He designed it all—the blinding white rooms decorated with stained-glass windows and his vision of the Stations of the Cross. It is simplicity itself with a loose flow of lines and images. I had considered attending a service there, but when I found out that the doors are locked once the service starts, I declined. The room is small, and for me, would’ve felt too claustrophobic. Chapelle du Rosaire or Chapelle Matisse, Avenue Henri Matisse. (There are signs all over the village to direct you.) TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516 |
|
Copyright © 2005 James Morgan & Beth Arnold. All rights reserved
|
|
