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Brittany -
LodgingWe arrived in Dinan, looked over an eccentric Bed & Breakfast, and nixed it. Then we went to the centre ville and checked into the Hotel le d’Avaugour on the square. This is what we were looking for. It had the perfect location with a garden that will be enchanting when Spring blossoms and a pleasant salon to read or chat. We took the cheaper room (on street rather than garden) and were happy with it. I spoke my bad French with the welcoming proprietor, Nicolas Caron, who helped me with it. We would happily stay here again and for a fair price. Hotel le d’Avaugour*** Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsWhen we were in Dinan, we were ready for a different taste. We love French food, but sometimes you want something else. We were walking up the street to a Breton restaurant that Nicolas Caron had recommended, when Le Taj Mahal lured us in. The aromas were scintillating as were the nibbles We were seduced by the flavors of everything we ate, but the Nan Fromage, Chicken Tandoori and Curry were particular favorites and also reasonably priced. Le Taj Mahal On Location
The heart of Bertrand du Guesclin is entombed in the Basilique St-Sauveur. ShoppingDinan has great shopping. When we were here in 1998, Blair, Bret, and I bought clothes, a Breton tablecloth for my mother. We returned to the location where a set of silver cups had called to me, but I had resisted them. The owner, Dominique Quéré, has a good eye for antiques, and this time we made a purchase. It pleased us immensely. Take a look. Au Clair Obscur TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car
It’s King Gradlon country in and around Quimper all the way to the Finistére coast. Legend has it that the good king built the dazzling city of Ys by the sea for his very spoiled daughter, Dahut, who never went to church. The devil seduced the princess and took the village, and the sea flooded it. King Gradlon was only saved from the waters by letting his evil daughter go. (Let this be a lesson to you evil daughters out there. You know who I mean.) She was dashed on the rocks. Gradlon references are everywhere.
LodgingQuimper seems to be short on good hotels, so it was a relief to find the Hotel Gradlon (named after the legendary King). The street out front is not quaint, but once you’re in, you’ll find a very comfortable hotel with a lovely salon for drinks, breakfast, or just to sit. (I imagined I could be a British colonist anywhere, which pleased me.) The whole hotel has a British feel as did our room, which was small but fine, and the beds were made with lovely linens. The Celtic influence is all round, and the Gradlon reflects it. When we told a woman we met, we were staying at the Gradlon, she said, “Oh, that’s the best hotel in town.” Hotel Gradlon*** Another option would be to stay at the fabulous Le Guilguiffin (see Audierne, La Pointe du Raz, Pont-Croix) in Landudec—which is not far, and use it as your base for Quimper and the drive to the coast. It would be easy enough, tantalizingly tempting. Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
Créperie du Sallé Shopping
Francois Le Villec On Location
Cathédrale St-Corentin, Old Quimper. Be sure to walk the streets in the old town around the cathedral. Notice the Celtic feel.
Musée départmental Breton How can you go to Quimper and not check out the faience? There are many shops selling it, but what I wanted to do and couldn’t (it was closed), was go to the Musée de la Faïence, which is supposed to have a marvelous collection. Musée de la Faïence Need to KnowThe River Odet runs through Quimper with one-way streets on either side, which makes it a little harder to negotiate when driving. This waterway as well as the River Steir add to the city’s ambience. Quimper is a fairly large city and seemed hard for us to drive into. Follow the signs to the Office of Tourism. The friendly, nice women have good maps, info, and directions to help you get where you need to go. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car Audierne, La Pointe du Raz, and Pont-Croix
Lodging
Le Guilguiffin Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
Le Grand Large Bar & Brasserie TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car
LodgingWhen we were in Belle Ile, it was the off-season, and many hotels were closed. Our friend Alice loves Belle Ile and knows it well. She always stays at Le Clos Fleuri, which is right outside of Le Palais, the capital and point of disembarkation from the ferry. It’s easy to find. The hotel is bright, and the rooms are comfortable, quiet, and restful. The proprietress, Veronique, only speaks a little English, but we had no problems communicating with each other. It is weird how much Veronique reminded us of our friend Ellen Kennon from St. Francisville, Louisiana, who had a wonderful Bed & Breakfast of her own. Le Clos Fleuri***
Two hotels, the Castel Clara and Le Manoir De Goulphar sit at a stunning view of Port Goulphar, where the wild Australian painter John Peter Russell once had a manoir himself. The modern architecture looks awkward in the Breton landscape, but what a spot. The hotels, especially Castel Clara, are reportedly marvelous. It has drawn its share of famous guests like Francois Mitterand, and has a spa that’s available to guests of Le Manoir as well. I could make do with some of that luxury in this incredible location. Castel Clara**** Le Manoir De Goulphar***
Les Pougnots Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots La Maison For a healthy menu (for France—you know what I mean), Le Perroquet Vert offers salads and tarts and desserts that can be eaten in the happy restaurant or taken home. We had a perfect winter salad with grilled veggies on top and a Soupe de Poissoins, then unspeakably delicious desserts. We finagled a taste of their homemade “rhum a l’estragon,” a digestif, which wasn’t at all hard. I think they were honored we wanted some of the private label. (One glass was enough.) You can’t miss the green and orange building. Le Perroquet Vert
Restaurant of the Hôtel de Bretagne Our last dinner on Belle Ile was at the Restaurant Le Grand Café of the Hôtel Atlantique. Jim ordered some of the island’s lamb—grilled wonderfully. And when I mentioned that he loved caramel, our waiter brought him ice cream with homemade caramel sauce poured over the top. Man, it was good. The hotel seems nice. A couple was having a romantic dinner with their baby monitor on the table. They were obviously guests and certainly felt secure. Restaurant Le Grand Café, Hôtel Atlantique For A DrinkThe bar at the Castel Clara would a fine place to have a drink with the brilliance of Port Goulphar as your vision. To be here at twilight and watch the sun go down would be a moment not to be missed and one that I will return to see. Bar du Castel Clara**** On Location
Citadelle Vauban, Le Palais.
The other famous natural sight is L’Apothicairerie. There’s an ugly hotel there (with the same name), but the views are incredible, the waves majestically colliding with the boulders. Both of these sites are easy to find on this wild island. Pick up a map, follow the signs, and drive. There’s just no way to get lost. 
Need to KnowOne extremely important bit of info: You have to book the ferry from Quiberon—especially if you’re taking a car, and you need one. You can rent a car on the island if you wish. There are scheduled trips back and forth all day. The number for Quiberon tourist information is 02.97.50.07.84. Their fax number is 02.97.30.58.22.
Office of Tourism of Belle-Ile-en-Mer
We love Belle Ile! TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S. and picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your lease term, you simply hand them back the keys (the maximum is six months, though you can buy the car if you want). We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles, from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, I’m the navigator. We highly recommend the company. Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516. The wonderful house we stayed in for six weeks is outside of Auray, one of eight Breton towns that are titled Ville d'Art et d'Histoire. Auray is a sleepy village in the winter, but spring wakes it up with flowers and travelers who are making their way around the beautiful Morbihan coast. Carnac and Ste-Anne-d'Auray are fifteen minutes away, and Quiberon (the departure point for ferries to Belle Ile) is 30 to 45 minutes. Auray's old town starts at the harbor of the River Auray called the Port St-Goustan and goes up the gentle hillside. A picturesque stone bridge crosses over, and charming 15th Century houses, restaurants, and cafés frame the quay-including Le Relais Franklin, which is where Benjamin Franklin stayed when he landed here on his way to make a treaty with the French in 1776. The St-Goustan Quarter is so quaint that a French period piece was being shot when we were here. It was fun to see the actors in costume and watch scenes taking shape! Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsYou have to have a drink or galette at Le Relais Franklin. Ben Franklin. 1776. How can you not? His picture hangs in the crêperie. There is a terrace outside, and the cidre is icy cold and delicious. Inexpensive. Le Relais Franklin The most fou-fou restaurant at the port is L'Eglantine. It's intimate in a cheery way (not dark and seductive) with linen tablecloths and well-set tables. On Valentine's Day, there were holiday decorations and a special menu. We tried to get in but alas hadn't made a reservation. It's that kind of place. The menu is more elaborate than other restaurants close by, and the atmosphere more formal. Seafood is king. More expensive than the nearby eateries but also more of an event. L'Eglantine To Market, To MarketOn Mondays, Auray has a good market that runs all the way through town and has everything from clothes, shoes, table linens, fabrics, and dishes to fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices, live chickens, fish, charcuterie, and an excellent rotisserie vender with chickens, guineas, pork, sausages, and more. Mr. Paella comes here as well, and his cous cous and paella are darn delicious. Weekly Market on Monday. Starts early and lasts until early afternoon. Need a supermarché? There is a massive Le Clerc store which is like a Wal-Mart Superstore but more upscale. Groceries, music, household items, clothes, shoes, and more are nicely arranged. We even found peanut butter here, and there are Emile Henri dishes and a great wine and liquor section as well as a cafeteria and bar. If you need to load up, this is a great place to do it. LeClerc, Centre LeClerc ShoppingJim needed some art supplies, and we even framed a painting at Art et Cadr' at a good price. The store is modern and has a good and high-quality range of products including divine sheets of paper. A very nice couple runs it. Art et Cadr' We have bought most of our wines (and quite delightful) at the grocery stores for $2 to $5 a bottle. Then Jim found this cave with its "cave" dimness and feel, bottles laid on their sides and the variety impressive. Plus you can buy in quantity-taste the selections and fill up a cask of some very good vins. We chose a Bordeaux for €2.89 a liter. Score! The owner has a wonderful smile to greet you. Cave "Les Crus Des Vignerons" I prefer to buy my religious souvenirs at the shops associated with the church or site rather than other stores. I believe they're more authentic, whether that's true or not. Tradition et Culture at Ste-Anne-d'Auray is a good one. Their merchandise ranges from beautiful porcelain figures of Ste-Anne and the baby Virgin to glow-in-the-dark plastic ones. Very cool. They also have some nicely done regional products via the store's name. Tradition et Culture, Magasin de la Basilique On LocationThe Port St-Goustan is charming. The river runs under a stone bridge to the harbor, restaurants and half-timbered houses line the quay. On the town side, the Promenade du Loch provides a beautiful vista of the whole area and is serene. The path follows along the river across from the moored sail boats. You may get to see rowers gliding by. Église St-Gildas is a handsome 17th Century church on the corner of the Place Notre-Dame and the Rue de l'Eglise St. Gildas. If you're here, take a few minutes to duck in. Ste-Anne-d'Auray is a short distance from Auray, and for the mystery of religious miracles, definitely worth a trip. The story is that this is the birthplace of the Virgin Mary's mother, Anne. Beginning in 1623, she appeared several times to local farmer, Yves Nicolazic, and asked him to build a chapel dedicated to her in one of his fields. In 1625, he dug up an old statue of her where she'd said the chapel should be built. Ste Anne is the major site of pilgrimage in Brittany, and many Bretons consider her their patron saint. From March 7th to October, there are several pardons which take place at the abbey and draw thousands of people. The major ones are July 26th, August 15th, and in early October. The huge and grand church and its immaculate grounds give pause to the lore and this whole event. There's also a great shop connected to the church with well-done as well as kitschy souvenirs. Need to KnowThe Office de Tourisme D'Auray has great info for Auray and the whole area. The building it's housed in looks like a very old chapel that has been most attractively transformed. Office de Tourisme D'Auray The fast and comfortable TGV rail line comes directly to Auray. It's a quick way to get to the region if you don't want to drive. Try the Eau de Vies de Cidres while you're here. They're Brittany's version of Calvados and quite delicious! TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car
On Location
There are many sites and fields covered in the stones-dolmens, menhirs, and tumuli. Take some time to see them. Hopefully, a field will be open where you can actually walk through and touch the stones themselves. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car
Vannes is a nice sized city (more than 50,000) with the charisma of the old-a very fine centre ville with superior ramparts and beautiful gardens surrounding-and the energy of the new-a diversity of good shopping, restaurants, and the essence of a city life. We can imagine why it's one of France's top "quality of life" cities. We went several times. Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
On the horseshoe of the marina, the Bar De L'Océan sits with
several other cafés. We liked the looks of this one best, and the menu
was exactly what we wanted-sandwiches and drinks. Bar De L'Océan, 4 Pl. Gambetta (at the Marina), Vannes. While we were wandering around Vannes for the first time, this place caught my attention. When we came back another night for dinner, we decided it was the spot to try. I didn't know how festive and eccentric it really was until we walked inside. The walls are covered with a wild mélange of sombreros, a hand playing a guitar, dolls, vintage posters, and purses, and plenty of other funny stuff. A guy who looked like a burned out rock and roll star with long, gray hair and no shirt (covering his paunch) under his jacket seated us. We ordered a French version of Shepherd's pie, and it was like you were in your French mother's kitchen. Moderately priced. Chez la mere On our third visit to Vannes, we walked up a street we'd unfortunately never been on. There were several good-looking restaurants, and we chose the one painted red, La Gavroche. We were not disappointed. It was golden sunlight and Provencal red inside with a sophisticated feel, and people were still pouring in at 9:30. Jim and I ordered menus for €15.50. He enjoyed a green salad with lardons (basically chunks of bacon), while I had the maison soupe de poissons to start. Both were delicious. For our main courses, it was duck breast for me and pork medallions for him with puréed pumpkin and potatoes dauphinoise. We both had ice creams for dessert. Mine was in a puddle of fruit coulis. The dinners were well-priced and wonderful, the ambience terrific. Restaurant "La Gavroche," To Market, To Market
We bought fresh and well-flavored sausages from these vendors-one covered in Herbes de Provence and the other with hazelnuts. All their products looked great! I would buy more. Délices De La Presqu'île ShoppingFor a great selection of kitchenware, Anne-Marie Caudel is brimming with utensils, dishes, glasses-basically anything you want. We have a terrible penchant for breaking glasses of any kind. We found wonderful ones there for a very reasonable price and snatched them up. Anne-Marie Caudal On Location
TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car
We followed the Michelin Green Guide's route for our own unworldly trip. The route is also marked for tourists with road signs, and I think this might be the better plan to use. They are green with a tree on them to indicate the direction to view all the sites. (We found they were often backwards to us.) The next time I would stop in one of the Tourism Offices to get a map, and I think I'd start in Paimpont. ShoppingI found my souvenirs at Au Pays de Merlin. It smells like a head shop (incense) when you walk in and has a mix of Celtic, fairy, and the other mystical kinds of merchandise that you find in stores such as this. Some objects topped the height of tourist kitsch. Others were for the devoted, but my find was interesting jewelry. Au Pays de Merlin On Location
The village of Paimpont is further into the forest and set beside
a big lake that had whitecaps tearing across it the day we were there. You drive
through a stone gateway and onto a rue lined with houses and shops. There is
a lovely abbey church with a tourism office next door with books in English on
the enchanted forest. (I advise buying one of these for your trip through the
forest. It will enrich your Next we followed the route to a wonderful 15th Century castle, the Château de Trécesson. It's surrounded by a pool of water and quite stunning with its turreted gatehouse. From there, we made our way to the village of Tréhorenteuc with its church with stained glass window of the Holy Grail. The Val Sans Retour or Valley of No Return is right outside of town. You stop in the third (and last) public parking lot on the highway toward Ploërmel. The path around the valley leads from there. It takes about an hour to walk it. The story is that another fairy and magician, Morgane, was betrayed by her lover. She cast a spell on the valley so that any false lover who found himself there was not able to leave. Knights also fought giants and monsters in this valley. We did return. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car Rennes
Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
Brasserie La Piccadilly To Market, To Market
Saturdays. Centre Ville-the pedestrian traffic in the old city will all be going there. ShoppingThere is a Virgin Megastore here and lots of lovely boutiques. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company. Europe by Car
Several people told us that Nantes was a vivacious and beautiful city, and our expectations were met. Nantes was the capital for the Dukes of Brittany, and their magnificent chateau along with the pristine Cathedral of St-Pierre and St-Paul still hold a comely court for the city’s royal history. The Sévre, Erdre, and Loire Rivers all meet here, and grand houses were built by wealthy families whose fortunes were made from the sugar and ebony (slave) trades. Their unique architectural features whisper symbols of the sea and faraway lands where the shippers sailed. Nantes has a cultural life that you can see and feel, and the University of Nantes provides a vibrant energy that is in synergy with the past. This city is also the capital of the Pays de la Loire region and a good place to start or end your Loire trip. LodgingThe Hôtel de France is an old-style hotel excellently located steps away from the Place Graslin (and La Cigale). The scale and décor of its lobby is impressive as is the urban hipness of its cozy, chic bar. There is also a restaurant though we didn’t try it. Our room was peachy, Louis XVI, and huge. For attitude and style along with prices that range from 58 to 99 Euros, you can’t beat this hotel. Hotel de France*** I have noticed that all over France the Best Western group has bought nice properties at good locations, and Hotel Le Jules Verne is one of them. Although rather unremarkable on the outside, the inside produces a small but crisp lobby, and our room was retro-cool, a nice size with all amenities, and a view of Nantes rooftops. The price was reasonable. We were happy. In fact, I picked up a book of all the Best Western properties in France. Hotel Le Jules Verne*** For ultra-sleek and minimalist modern, there is La Perouse. Its exterior is boxy standard, and the Phillipe Starck-ish interior is not quite as cool as the master himself but cool enough. Design is the thing. Hotel La Pérouse*** Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsOur new chef friends, American Johey Verfaille and her French husband Stephane Gawlowicz, have moved from Belle Ile to Nantes to open restaurant Le Pressoir. The restaurant is named in honor of their terrific and extensive wine list of around 100 bottles that covers almost all the French regions with prices ranging from 17 to 100+ Euros. The menu is small and changes frequently, sometimes daily, in conjunction with the market. The restaurant is located in the centre ville in a neighborhood called "Ile Feydeau," and the atmosphere is cozy. Stone walls and exposed beams add to the charm. They’re getting lots of compliments which doesn’t is no surprise to us. We’ve tasted their most delicious cuisine several times and have been knocked out by it. We highly recommend paying them a visit. Le Pressoir Eating at La Cigale is a must if you visit Nantes, and it has been since it opened in 1895. The classic French brasserie is a delight for the senses, overflowing with Art Nouveau chandeliers and bright tiles emblazoned with cicadas wearing dresses. Make a reservation because you’re likely to find it packed with people who are having a good time and enjoying their dinners. The food is delicious. We were delighted to find oysters from Cancale, and Jim swears this is the best Crème Brulee he’s ever tasted. Moderately priced. La Cigale The area around the theatre is hip, cool, filled with young professionals and professor-looking types, students walking by who stop at Théâtre Café and Brasserie to have a drink, lunch, dinner or a snack. I liked the inside and out, the staff, drinks, and food. The prices were reasonable, and we stopped in twice. Théâtre Café and Brasserie For a comfortable café with good comfort food, we found the Café Moliére to fit the bill. It is a proud little place with a staff who pays attention and regulars with their canine pals. Café Moliére For A DrinkChoose a place on the sizeable Place du Commerce and people watch. There’s plenty of action night or day. On LocationFrancois II, Duke of Brittany, and his daughter Anne who became Queen of France from 1491 to 1514 are credited with the glory of the Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne as well as many good works. The castle was originally designed as a fortress, and over the years, it has been used as barracks, arsenal, and home for the French kings of the 16th and 17th Centuries. It is classic fairy tale—even with an impressive moat. Currently, centuries of grime are being removed from its walls. Oh, it will sparkle then. Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne We found the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre and Saint-Paul to be extraordinary with its white stone and light, and we were taken with it. A Roman crypt remains below the choir, the only vestige of the original building, but Francois II did a fine job with the current structure. No darkness can hide in this showy Gothic work that houses his and his wife’s, Marguerite de Foix’s, tombs. The sculptures are quite beautiful. Queen Anne honored her parents with commissioning such work by one of the Renaissance’s greatest sculptors, Michel Colombe. The Saint Pierre-Gate is to the great cathedral’s side, and is quite stunning as well. It was built in the 15th Century on the foundations of a Gallo-Roman wall. And behind the cathedral is the Cours Saint-Pierre which is a lovely plane tree-lined boulevard which has a bit of the Tuileries whimsy. The Office of Tourism in Nantes can give you a brochure for a walking tour of the city in which all of the above will be covered as well as other sites including the Ile Feydeau. Here you will find architectural and decorative details of the mansions that reflect the exotic lands where the slave ships sailed. TransportationThis is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S. and picked up brand-new cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier, and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things more trouble-free. At the end of your lease term, you simply hand them back the keys (the maximum is six months, though you can buy the car if you want). We’ve driven all over France in these automobiles, from Paris to Provence to the island of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, I’m the navigator. We highly recommend the company. Europe by Car |
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Copyright © 2005 James Morgan & Beth Arnold. All rights reserved
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Jim
will tell you why Belle Ile figured as an important place and point in Matisse’s
artistic development, but he had been eagerly anticipating coming here the whole
time we’d been in France. All I can say (though somehow I’ll force
myself to write more) is—Wow! We’d heard Belle Ile was very beautiful,
and it is, but there’s a quality that sets it apart from the many superb
vistas along the Brittany Coast. I think part of it has to do with the fact that
Belle Ile is an island, and the people who live there have an island mentality.
It’s wild and wonderful, small enough to be intimate and big enough to
have fun and interesting outings. Nothing could be more amazing than walking
the path that goes round the island’s edge. (I’ve heard it takes
4 days to do it all. You don’t have to.) It’s reminiscent of the
Cinque Terre in Italy. We truly loved Belle Ile and will go back one of these
days. The ferry ride alone is worth the trip, but it would be too bad to let
it go at that.
As
we were driving into the charming village of Sauzon, we noticed a little hotel, Les
Pougnots, that perched above the road on the left. It appeared enchanting
with a gate and steps going up—like a fairy godmother might live there
or at least a happy spirit with good taste. We didn’t get to go in, but
we loved its looks and location. I was told it was very nice, and I’d love
to give it a try. Maybe it is my fairy godmother or another lovely French woman
whom I’d like to meet. 
Alice
also recommended La Maison to us. What a find! First off, it’s
darling, and the owner—Phillipe—has a great sense of humor. I’m
not going to spoil it by telling you how, but it’s a very funny place with
a wonderful eclectic menu that includes classic French dishes as well as a taste
of the world. Yummy. Stephane, the chef, is married to an American woman from
Maryland named Johey, who is also a chef and will cook in another restaurant
Phillipe is opening. A fire was burning, and we felt like we belonged. We were
there for Friday dinner and Sunday lunch. 
For
our first meal on Belle Ile, we chose the restaurant of the Hôtel de
Bretagne. It’s on the first floor of the hotel (which for us would
be second), right on the quay. The view of the harbor is terrific from here,
and the restaurant is festive with an air of elegance. It was Jim’s birthday,
and we ordered up Oysters de Bretagne, another Soupe de Poissons, and a bottle
of white Muscadet. It was perfect. 
There
is absolutely no way you can miss the Citadelle Vauban in Le Palais,
since it’s the first thing you see from the ferry, an enormous fort that
protects the harbor and all of Le Palais. Well, I’ll tell you.
Louis XIV sent the engineer Vauban there in 1683 to plan and construct the island’s
defense, and he did. Voila! There is a long history, but the German Army occupied
the Citadel during the war. (Once you see this, you can understand why. You can
also see other bunkers around the island.) A wealthy couple bought this massive 
monument
and have been restoring it ever since, which is an unbelievable feat. There is
a small but interesting museum and wonderful views of Le Palais and the sea.
Part of the more underground parts, prison-like rooms, are creepy.
There
are two well-known natural sites on Belle Ile that have astonishing views and
where the angry sea crashes against massive, jagged rocks. The first and my personal
favorite is La Pointe des Poulains, which is not far from Sauzon. There
is a lonely (Is this the definition when you look lighthouse up?) lighthouse,
and I love the simple building on this barren crest of rock. It’s smashing
to walk all around, but literally, be careful where you step. Some of the crags
cut into the land, and there are sheer drop-offs, where you could get smashed.
If the tide is in, the path is 
blocked
to the lighthouse. From here, you can see one of Belle Ile’s forts in another
dramatic place. The famous actress Sarah Bernhardt loved Belle Ile and bought
this fort, turning it into her summer home. (Before I knew this was the Fort
de Sarah Bernhardt I’d proposed the same idea to Jim.) I just don’t
know how some drunk guest didn’t get hurt, but wow.
Stop into Belle Ile’s Office of Tourism, which is just down the quay
from where the ferry docks. Pick up maps and brochures here. The staff is knowledgeable
and helpful, and the five or 10 minutes this takes sets up your visit to the
island—which is so easy to get around. 
It
doesn’t take long to get around the whole island, so do. Each village has
its own character and characters, and there is a Celtic feel and atmosphere—more
so around Locmaria. We heard a tale about historical sorcery of some sort in
that area—which I, of course, loved. It added to the mystery.
I've
never been to Stonehenge, but I understand Carnac surpasses it. It is
densely Neolithic with thousands of standing stones, the mystery of the alignments
and megalithic monuments. I have read many stories about this enigma. From goblins,
fairies, or dwarfs to St. Cornély who was said to have turned Roman legionnaires
into stone, many mythical stories surround the stones' placement and reason for
being. More likely scenarios are religious, funereal, and fertility rituals.
As I've grown older, I have appreciated mythology more and more. Archetypes,
legends, and journeys command my attention. Carnac is a place where man evolved
from nomads to a complex society. You can see it. You can hear the call in your
bones.
My advice is to start in the village of Carnac at the Musée de la Préhistoire
Miln-Le Rouzic, named after the archeologists who were entranced with this site
and devoted themselves to it. There are interesting artifacts, and you leave
with a sense of the history and its reclamation. (Be sure and ask for the English
notes to read as you go through the museum.) The history is so vast in its subject
(though not size) it's almost too much to comprehend. We looked and read but
didn't spend hours and hours trying to absorb every detail. If you're not an
archaeologist, ooh la la-forget trying
to process all the information. We got the general idea and bought good guidebooks
to take home and study. I knew this was a place that would reverberate with me. 
The 17th Century church of St. Cornély is a little further into the
village, and I was drawn to it when I saw it. It is a beautiful old church with
fantastic murals on the wooden vaulted ceilings. I was the only one there at
the time, so I had a private viewing. Its serenity transcended me and my own.
There
are lots of charming and attractive restaurants in the old town of Vannes. These
are the ones we tried:
Jim
ordered a ham and cheese baguette, and I had a panini with ham, cheese, tomato,
and onion with a little salad on the side. We basked in the sun, snacked, and
enjoyed the day. Inexpensive. 
On
Saturday mornings, Vannes has a lively market. It's not Rennes, but it's got
one thing Rennes doesn't-Mr. Paella. An Ed Harris look-alike (with worse teeth)
was standing there in his chef's uniform behind a paella pan that would feed
150, a huge pan of cous cous, and some sort of pork bubbling in brown sauce.
It looked and smelled savory and delicious, and we took some home as well as
our market bag full of yellow and white turnips, fish, a roasted chicken, cheese,
tiny purple cabbages, tomatoes, spinach, sausages, a chocolate fondant dessert,
and a funny cake encased in pastry and burned on top. Weekly Market on Wednesday
and Saturday. If you walk up the street from Porte Vincent or follow the signs
to Les Halles, you can't miss it. 
Mr. Paella
The
gateway to old Vannes is at the Porte Saint-Vincent just behind the
marina and a crescent of sunny cafés, which is a terrific place to have
a drink and a sandwich. Walk through the entrance and into the charming old town
with cobblestone streets and well-kept half-timbered houses and lots of nice
shops-including many regional epiceries. Another medieval gate that is rather
grand is the Porte Prison which is down the narrow rue, St-Gwenaël,
beside the imposing Cathédrale St-Pierre which anchors the old
city. On the same street is Le Cave St-Gwenaël, a rustic crepêrie
that screams 15th Century. The Musée Archéologique du Morbihan reportedly
has a wealth of prehistoric specimens from the region, but we didn't get to see
them. Don't let Vannes's majestic ramparts escape you. They're quite
wonderful. From the promenade de la Garenne (through the Porte Poterne from the
old city), is the most photographed view of Vannes. The old wash-houses, the lavoirs,
are nestled beside the stream that flows through. But my favorite view is on
the other side. The formal gardens are exquisite, and the Chateau de L'Hermine is
majestic, all beautifully lit at night.
Between
Rennes and Vannes is the enchanted Forêt de Paimpont which is
also known as Brocélliande. This is the center of King Arthur
and the Knights of the Round Table lore and legends in Brittany. A mixture
of myths, fairy tales, the teachings of the Gospel, and the romance of chivalry
came together in the songs of Breton bards and their Stories of the Round Table
of which the Holy Grail (the chalice used at the Last Supper) is the centerpiece.
This Breton tradition was written in poems between the 12th and 14th Centuries
in England and Brittany. Most of the mystical events in the tales take place
in the ancient, enchanted forest of Brocelliande, and the whole area is quite
beautiful.
Merlin
the Magician (or sorcerer) lived in the Forêt de Paimpont. We
started at the village of St. Léry, which was an old and beautiful
hamlet, every house pristine. The 14th Century church was remarkable with its
Renaissance porch and quaint cemetery surrounding. Above the doors, the Virgin,
Gabriel, and St. Michael slaying the dragon are all sculpted. This was a wonderful
stopover in this lore-filled region.
seeing
of the sites and their lore.) 
Rennes
is the regional capital of Brittany and a city we enjoy with an urban flair and
feeling. You would and wouldn't know it has a population of 350,000. The old
town is full of half-timbered houses and narrow, cobblestone rues, and there
are tons of cafés and restaurants with an international diversity. People
are milling about, especially on Saturdays, when the enormous weekly market is
in full swing. Then they stop and have a drink or meal and fill up the eateries
around the area. Rennes is a university town, and the young people are clearly
in sight, while their energy saturates the surrounding history. And the shopping
is great-designers et al!
Right
on the handsome Place de la Mairie, the Brasserie La Piccadilly has
held its own since 1832. It's clubby with leather banquettes and paneled wood,
and huge storefront windows open the restaurant to the square across to the graceful
Hotel de Ville-a terrace in front. We ordered salad and soup, while others around
us had coffees, teas, while chatting on their cell phones or waiting for their
dates. Moderately priced. 
The
weekly market in Rennes is bustling with life and long lines of vendors selling
fruits and vegetables, stems of flowering artichokes in summer (I've never seen
them anywhere else), bouquets and pots of seasonable bloomers. There are two
enormous buildings with meats, cheeses, poultry, wines, cakes, and more. Tables
and tables of seafood are outside (at least in the winter). The savory smell
of roasting chickens and smoking griddles of crépes and galettes tempt
all who walk by. The market is busy until about 1:30, when everything starts
shutting down. Within an hour, it's cleaned and washed up. Cafés and restaurants
with an international variety surround the area, and shoppers congregate all
morning until mid-afternoon. We had been here before in 1998 with Blair and Bret
and had to come back it was so good! In fact, on both trips, we could hardly
divert our attention to do anything else.