Normandy
Rouen
Lodging
When
we finally found Le Vieux Carré (which wasn’t easy) in
the heart of the old city, it made going in circles on the alley-sized streets
worth it. It’s funky, charming, cozy, and sophisticated—a list of
adjectives that’s hard to find in any one place. The rooms are basic and
simple, but imaginatively done. Ours was painted with a swag of red and gold.
We loved the hotel and the salon de thé that went with it. As I’ve
said, it reminded Jim of New York’s Algonquin in its heyday. It’s
moderately priced, and the value is terrific My advice is to follow the hotel
signs and then get out and walk to get your bearings. You can unload your luggage
in front, and parking is nearby. If you don’t stay there, at least have
lunch or a drink.
Le Vieux Carré **
34 rue Ganterie
Rouen
Tel: 02.35.71.67.70.
Email: vieux-carre@mcom.fr.
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Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
Make
a reservation for lunch at Le Vieux Carré’s Salon de Thê (see
above). It’s everything I said and worth a trip for a lively lunch. Very
good and not expensive.
Le Vieux Carré **
34 rue Ganterie, Rouen.
Tel: 02.35.71.67.70.
Email: vieux-carre@mcom.fr
We
had to try what is billed as the oldest auberge (inn) in France—since 1345—I
mean, 658 years old. What is their secret? Maybe the celebrities know. By the
pictures on the wall, they all come. Anyway, the ambience is old inn-ish with
elegant service and nice food. (I liked mine better than Jim did.) We chose one
of the menus, which was something like €27.00 each.
La Couronne,
31 Place du Vieux Marché,
Rouen.
Tel: 02.35.71.05.78.
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On Location
Okay, the place where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. You have to go.
I was not fond of the modern architectural mess—oh, I mean market/church/monument,
but it is an incredible moment in history that has reverberated ever since. Joan
deserves for you to pay your respects.
Place du Vieux Marché, in the center of old Rouen. Believe me, you’ll
know it when you see it.
We enjoyed our time spent in the Musée des Beaux-Arts, especially
the Impressionist area. There is space, light, and the paintings are well-hung
to be viewed both near and far. It was pleasant to wander through. The museum
was only about two blocks from our hotel, then again nothing is far.
Musée des Beaux-Arts. Square Verdrel, Rouen.
Tel: 02.35.71.28.40.
Sometimes we visit cathedrals, and sometimes we don’t. It depends on
how many we’ve been through recently (there is a limit), how much time
we have, and what mood we’re in. We walked around the Cathédrale
Notre-Dame at night, appreciating its grand French Gothic façade
and blue lighting. It is a marvel, but time was short. We didn’t feel the
need to go back the next day. Maybe on our next trip.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame, Place de la Cathédrale, Rouen.
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Transportation
This is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period
of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d
read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective
to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new
cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier,
and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things
more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve
driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island
of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company.
Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
Website: www.europebycar.com
Email: info@europebycar.com
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Étretat
Lodging
We
drove into the village and followed the signs up the hill to the Dormy House.
It holds prime position for the spectacular view of village, cliffs and sea.
The hotel is lovely and modern with a good restaurant that has all the right
touches, even in the off-season, plus the same killer vista. Our room was large
and comfortable—Jim had plenty of room to set up his easel and paint—and
the bathroom was deluxe. French doors opened to the balcony overlooking the famous Étretat
vista. Fluffy beds and the sound of the surf lulled us to sleep. For golfers,
there is a course on top of the cliffs. It must be sublime to play there. Worth
every penny.
Dormy House***
Route de Havre
É tretat
Tel: 02.35.27.07.88.
Website: www.dormy-house.com.
Email: dormy.house@wanadoo.fr.
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Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
For a more elegant, formal, or romantic dinner, the restaurant at the Dormy
House is the place. The view is incredible, the service attentive. A full menu
is offered, although you’re in seafood country here.
Dormy House***
Route de Havre
É tretat
Tel: 02.35.27.07.88.
Website: www.dormy-house.com.
Email: dormy.house@wanadoo.fr.
The Taverne des Deux Augustins is just what the name implies, has the look
and feel of a pub. Request a table in the cozy, old section (when you walk in
the door). We liked it better than the newer add-on). Hearty meals and fish are
served.
Taverne des Deux Augustins
Place Foch
Étretat.
Tel: 02.35.27.06.99.
There are brasseries, pizzerias, and fish restaurants scattered around the
village.
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On Location
The reason to
go to Étretat is to be by the sea—relax, chill, and see
the stunning cliffs. But to increase your pleasure (and get some exercise at
the same time), climb the steps from the promenade to the path up the side of
the mountain (or you can cheat and drive, at least to the side where the church
is). It’s a haul, but once you’re up there, you feel like you could
touch Heaven. And it’s lying right in front of you in the outlook that
you have. Be brave and take the steps that go down through the crags. You can
walk along the top as well. The cliffs on the Dormy House side of the village,
the other side of Heaven, are not accessible by car. Walking is the only way
to get there.
A short outing would take you to Fêcamp, an historic, quaint
fishing village with some sights to see, including the Palais Bénédictine.
A Venetian monk conceived the potent liqueur in this place. (How many hangovers
in the world has he caused?) I’d like to have a lunch along the harbor
of Fêcamp and imagine the fisherman going out to sea.
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Transportation
This is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period
of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d
read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective
to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new
cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier,
and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things
more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve
driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island
of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company.
Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
Website: www.europebycar.com
Email: info@europebycar.com
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Honfleur
Honfleur is an enchanting village, a place where many artists have come to
paint. When you see it, you understand. It’s a place where Jim and I can
imagine living.
Lodging
Our
room at the Hotel L’Ecrin was so fabulous and French with high
ceilings and antique furniture. It inspired Jim to sketch and sketch. Beautiful
and elegant, every detail to perfection, it was the perfect venue for us in this
oh-so-charming town. The hotel salons are also tres French with a touch of the
Far East, full of interesting objects d’art and antiques. Danielle,
who checked us in, was the outgoing French woman you want to meet. The bed was
dreamy, and breakfast was delivered with an orchid. Shall I say more? You get
a lot of bang for your buck with this magnificent hotel.
Hotel L’Ecrin***
19 rue Eugéne-Boudin
Honfleur
Tel: 02.31.14.43.45.
Website: www.honfleur.com.
Email: hotel.ecrin.@usa.net.
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Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
When
we were in Honfleur, we weren’t looking for excellent restaurants, we were
looking for comfort food and comfortable places. We weren’t in the mood
for fuss, and we didn’t have any. Danielle at the L’Ecrin recommended L’Absinthe,
and I would trust her recommendation. There are many restaurants on the beautiful
harbor.
The
first one we tried was La Maison Bleue, which is also on the harbor,
and in a great spot. It had the feel and the good prices of a local hangout.
We had respectable coq au vin as the plat du jour (I really was craving chicken)
and liked the place. We went back the next night for moules.
La Maison Bleue
17 quai Saint-Etienne, Honfleur.
After frolicking with Frida, we walked into L’Ancrage for a
delicious Soupe de Poissons and a salad. The two guys, who were in charge, were
having fun at their jobs. We enjoyed the ambience as well as the food.
L’Ancrage
12 rue Montpensier, Honfleur.
(At the U of the harbor.)
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To Market, To Market
When we were in Honfleur in 1998, we had a long, delicious lunch by the harbor,
when it was drizzling rain. Jim was tired (they were calling me the Travel Nazi,
because I was determined we would absorb everything we could), and he went back
to the car, while Blair, Bret, and I snooped around. We found an excellent choclatier, Le
Marianik, where we bought apple candies that Blair still talks about. I
was disappointed that it was closed for the season, being repainted and such,
when we were there this time. Go, go. It has extraordinary confections.
Le Marianik’s, 35 rue de Dauphin, Honfleur.
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Transportation
This is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period
of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d
read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective
to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new
cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier,
and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things
more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve
driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island
of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company.
Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
Website: www.europebycar.com
Email: info@europebycar.com
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