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Picardy
Saint-Quentin
Lodging
 Our
first night out of Paris (and without reservations), we hit the jackpot. We drove
by the Hôtel des Canonniers, and like a siren, she called to us.
We stopped and went into the splendid mansion and were met by chic proprietress,
Marie-Paule Michel, who showed us to a wonderful room that had formally been
in the attic—big with a bathroom to match and a well fitted-out kitchenette,
table and chairs. You could imagine yourself an artist and this your pied-a-terre.
Two days later (we extended our stay and this room was booked) we moved to another
one—this was on the same floor as the family quarters—with high ceilings
and more elegant though smaller than the first. The garden matches the classic
motif of the hotel. Marie-Paule speaks excellent English and generously helped
us when Jim lost his car keys. The hotel is quiet and grand, and we loved it!
As far as I’m concerned, it is the place to stay for a trip to the Matisse
Museum in La Cateau, or any other reason if you’re in Picardy and a bargain
to boot. Our first room was €65.00, the second was €50.00.
Hôtel des Canonniers***
15 rue des Canonniers
Saint-Quentin
Tel: 03.23.62.87.87
Website : www.hotel-canonniers.com
Email : lescanonniers@aol.com
Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
There are several brasseries on the town square, which is a few minutes walk
from the hotel. Pick one (or more).
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Transportation
This is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period
of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d
read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective
to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new
cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier,
and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things
more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve
driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island
of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company.
Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
Website: www.europebycar.com
Email: info@europebycar.com
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Le Cateau-Cambrésis
Lodging
The Hostellerie du Marche (see below) is an option if you want to
spend a night in this village. The rooms are plain and basic but freshly done.
The restaurant is picture perfect for a small French hotel.
Hostellerie du Marché**
45 rue de Landrecies, Le Cateau-Cambrésis
Tel: 03.27.84.09.32
Website : hostelleriedumarche@yahoo.fr
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Cafés, Restaurants, and Bistrots
 The
museum closes from 12:30 until 2:00 P.M. for lunch, and we drove up the street
looking for a restaurant. When we saw the Hostellerie du Marché,
we knew that was it. When we walked in, we were thrilled. There is a small bar
and long dining room. A wall of windows looks out to a bright courtyard, and
at the end of the room a fire was burning in the fireplace. It was pretty and
cozy. Our lunch was delicious—a Roquefort tart and salad, pork with a saffron
sauce. We found the right place! The restaurant is the hotel dining room of this
establishment that has just been redone by its new owner. The value was great
for such delicious food.
Hostellerie du Marché**
45 rue de Landrecies, Le Cateau-Cambrésis
Tel: 03.27.84.09.32
Website : hostelleriedumarche@yahoo.fr
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On Location
 The
Musée Matisse is the reason you come to Le Cateau. We were excited about
visiting the museum in this tiny village but had no idea what a delight we would
find. Henri Matisse was born here, and shortly after, his family moved to nearby
Bohain. The artist gave the town and museum his nod before his death, but some
years later, the museum closed. After extensive renovations, it reopened with
a gala in November, 2002. For Matisse and art lovers, it is a must to take this
trip north from Paris. The museum was much larger and more majestic than we expected.
It’s laid out well, and you get a sense of the young Matisse, his life
and work. There is one painting of the fishing port, Collieure, in the South
of France, which was Matisse’s first experience in this golden light, and
shows his epiphany of color upon arriving there. (At least that’s how I
felt when I saw it.) The Tériade exhibition was a visual and intellectual
treat.
Musée Matisse, Le Cateau-Cambrésis
Tel : 03.27.84.64.50
Website : wportail.cg59.fr/conseil59/annexe/matisse/
Email : museematisse@cg50.f
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Need to Know
While you’re in Picardy, try a kir with Alsatian cremant (basically
champagne that wasn’t made there), an elegant and bubbly aperitif.
Also, give Flammenkuche a whirl. Essentially, it’s Alsatian pizza with
thinner crust and lighter. What’s not to like about toasty crust with cheese,
onion, and bacon?
Comfort food up here is choucroute garnie, a huge platter of sauerkraut with
fresh and smoked meats and sausages, which I quite enjoyed. It’s also served
with fish, which I couldn’t bring myself to try. I’m sure it’s
delicious, but sauerkraut and fish just didn’t seem right to this Southern
girl.
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Transportation
This is the second time we’ve come to France for an extended period
of time and leased a station wagon from Europe by Car. The first time I’d
read that if you were staying longer than three weeks, it was more cost effective
to lease. We made arrangements in the U.S., and both times picked up brand-new
cars—the first a Renault, this time a Peugeot. It couldn’t be easier,
and the cars have been great! They also come with insurance, which makes things
more trouble-free. At the end of your stay, you hand them back the keys. We’ve
driven all over France in these automobiles from Paris to Provence to the island
of Belle Ile. Jim is the driver, and I navigate. I highly recommend the company.
Europe by Car. Tel: (800) 223-1516
Website: www.europebycar.com
Email: info@europebycar.com
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