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Paris, France
Cafés, Restaurants, and BistrotsParis- Picking up food is as easy as stepping into a door and pointing at whatever you want. As far as going out for a meal, there are three ways to choose: 1. Follow your nose. 2. Check out the guidebooks and clippings you’ve kept. 3. Ask around. We do all three. But one thing we don’t do when we’re traveling in France is plan our entire schedule around restaurants every night. There’s too much good food around, and we revere our flexibility. The truth be told, I usually like my options open until the bitter end. Another point is that when we’ve been out all day and are dog-tired, we may not feel like dressing up, catching a cab and driving all the way across town or traipsing through the Metro. It can be trouble to search a place out, and we’d rather try some of the neighborhood bistros. We read their menus and see what suits us at the time. Besides, part of the adventure is making your own discoveries, being the one in the know. In our new life in Paris, we’ve discovered Chez Georges. How lucky! Chez Georges is a classic, a haven of a Parisian bistro, that’s tucked away in the 2nd Arrondissement just steps away from the Place des Victoires. The interior is cozy Parisian with two rooms, handsome and comfortable, and the aromas coming from the kitchen are tantalizing as are the perfectly prepared entrées and plats when they arrive. When you know you’re getting this quality, it’s hard to decide what you want. The menu is traditional with 1st course selections like boiled eggs with homemade mayonnaise, celery remoulade, and buttery escargot brimming with garlic. All are delicious! The fish is delicate and fresh. The steaks are juicy and tender, and the sauces rich. We love the ambience which is all about people enjoying their meals and dining experience. The waiters are friendly and professional, and we know them all. An international clientele finds its way to Chez Georges, but it’s dear to the French. Make reservations. Expensive. 2nd Arrondissement. Metro: Bourse. Chez Georges
Le Soleil en Cave After a stroll around the graceful Place des Vosges, gazing into the gallery windows after they were closed, we stepped into Ma Bourgogne. The smells coming from the kitchen extolled a comforting heartiness that stilled the bitter cold outside the door. We couldn't get a table right away, and the jovial proprietor supplied us with a glass of fruity Beaujolais Nouveau and a plate of sliced sausage. We were happy to wait our turn. We decided on one of the house specialties, steak tartare which I adore, and steak-frites, which were being devoured by many patrons around us. Add a good bottle of wine, and we were braced for the chilly walk back home. Ma Bourgogne Michel Tessel of French Home Rentals is like me—he appreciates good food for a fair price—and he turned us on to Le Felteu, which surely fits that category. It’s the French version of the classic American roadhouse and looks a little greasy and well-worn which makes me want to pull up a chair. The foyer is the bar, and the dining room is to the left as you walk in. The man in charge, Jerry, is a big guy who drives a flashy red motorcycle. We liked him right away. His menu is French home cooking, comfort food at its best, and the portions are immense. We love Jerry’s lamb and his cuisse de canard. A casserole of potatoes dauphinoise is delivered separately. Who could ask for more besides a good bottle of wine? Jerry has plenty. When I asked him if I could include his restaurant in my notes, Jerry’s reply was, as long as I don’t say this is a hot spot or anything. I don’t. Moderately priced and Cash Only. 4th Arrondissement. Metro: Rambuteau or Hotel de Ville. Le Felteu
Bofinger The Georges restaurant at the Centre Pompidou has one of the most spectacular views of Paris with the city rippling around you. In the day it’s amazing, but night is even better with the dark sky sparkling with the illuminated Sacre Coeur and all the other city lights. Very romantic. But there are problems which is why this restaurant is sometimes referred to as “the bad Georges.” The staff is slow, has a haughty attitude, and I hear the food isn’t very good. Expensive. 4th Arrondisement. Metro: Rambuteau or Hotel-de-Ville. Georges We needed a Mexican fix, and La Perla was a good choice for us. It has a Latin/Carribean/Hemingway-ish feel, the music is good and the energy can range from high to laid-back. Most important: They have good Margaritas. They also have lots of Tequilas and other Latin/Carribean/who-knows-what sounding cocktails. Second most important: The food is good. Evidently La Perla is a chain, at least in London and France. The combo works. Warning—be careful about the number of margaritas you have. They’re not big, and you can quickly run-up a big tab. Pitchers are more cost effective though still expensive. Moderately priced. 4th Arrondissement. Metro: Hotel-de-Ville. La Perla One of our most fun dinners has been at Le Gai Moulin. Don’t let its size fool you. Though small, it’s lined with cozy banquettes that are packed with happy diners who are usually attractive gay men. Though the attitude is low-key and friendly, the energy is high camp and its spirit huge. Our waiter was hilarious, and we made friends with two tables next to us. We enjoyed the dinner with good company and for a good price. I can’t wait to go back. 4th Arrondissement. Metro: Rambuteau. The Gai Moulin For a toney and/or romantic meal with French establishment ambience, Le Voltaire fits the bill. It’s tucked in a block along the Seine with the Louvre across the river. Intimate and plush, the impeccable service pleases, and the delicious food is beautifully presented and served. My omelet was perfect. Judging by the regulars, who were speaking and joking with the staff as they were leaving, it’s a favored address for an elite clientele. I’d occasionally like to be in Le Voltaire’s club. Expensive. 6th Arrondissement. Metro: Rue du Bac. Le Voltaire Oysters are always on our Christmas Eve menu, and our first holiday in Paris was no exception. Rather than cooking scalloped oysters with cream, we made a reservation at Vagenende and slurped them down fresh and raw. They were as briny as if they’d just been pulled from the sea. Our next course was fish. The interior of the brasserie is all art nouveau as if we had stepped back in time. Vagenende wears the era well though the atmosphere is a tad on the formal scale. High end of moderately priced. 6th Arrondissement. Metro: Odeon. Vagenende It is this simple. In years past, we could not conceive of a trip to Paris without lolling away some time at one or more of Ernest Hemingway’s haunts on the Left Bank. There was a reason why the writer and his buddies chose these watering holes. Their locations are top-notch, and they have a feel to them, which is due in no small part to these mythic figures. But my opinion is they were designed with style and born with strong energy. Les Deux Magots on the Boulevard St. Germain is an ideal spot to watch the bustle of the haute Left Bank go by. But you pay a high price. Expensive. 6th Arrondissement. Metro: St Germain des Pres. Les Deux Magots The bar at La Closerie des Lilas is classic and classy with a worldly bartender and legendary ambience. The drinks are excellent, the service friendly and first-rate. They have different menus for the brasserie and restaurant which is more expensive. We much prefer the brasserie which is next to the bar. Expensive. 6th Arrondissement. Metro: Port Royal or Vavin. La Closerie des Lilas Le Select is comfortable and choice, casual yet chic, and a desirable place to have a cool drink and light meal. Moderately priced. 14th Arrondissement. Metro: Vavin. Le Select
La Coupole
To get a blast from the past with inexpensive, traditional French favorites, Chartier is our favorite place. I don’t know of anything like it. It is located at the end of a long cobblestone courtyard, and its door opens to an immense dining room of late 19th and early 20th century ambience. Vintage wood paneling and beveled mirrors cover the walls, and brass and wooden hat racks hover above the rows of tables. This is the place to throw your coats and hats. The waiters complement the decor with their old-fashioned long white aprons, black vests, and bow ties. Depending on the size of your group, others may be seated with you in the communal spirit of family dining, for which this historic monument is perfect. The food is not fancy but good, and it’s fun to be part of the crowd. The waiters can be all business. Very Inexpensive. 9th Arrondissment. Metro : Grands Boulevards. Chartier
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Copyright © 2005 James Morgan & Beth Arnold. All rights reserved
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La
Coupole. Well, how can you beat a big, noisy brasserie with towering trays of
seafood, attractive people, and poodles sitting on lush banquettes. Upper end
of moderately-priced. 14th Arrondissement. Metro : Vavin.