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Paris, France
On LocationDon’t overlook the Place de la Bastille. Although the fortress itself is long gone, the revolutionary spirit lives on in the crowd that hangs out there, including many artists and hip young people. Sit down at a café and have a coffee or a glass of wine. The energy is palpable, whether it’s from the souls of the departed or the current trendy occupants. The monument is a massive bronze column, the Colonne de Juillet, and is topped by a figure of Liberty. It is movement, the essence of change. The Opéra Bastille is the massive building on a corner across from the Bastille monument. We find it a wonderful venue to see a production. It’s not as beautiful as the Palais Garnier at the Place de l’Opera, which is what you expect a grand opera house to be, especially with Chagall’s fantastic ceiling. But it’s more comfortable and the views to the stage are better for the inexpensive seats. The prices start from €5 and go all the way up to €160 for some productions. We had €9 tickets for Le Trouvére at the Opera Bastille, and we were very pleased. The ticket process is complicated to me. I recommend going to the box office while you’re here if you’re interested. Opéra National de Paris - Palais Garnier Opéra National de Paris - Opéra Bastille Website: www.operadeparis.fr I appreciate the light of dusk anywhere I am, but it’s my favorite time of day to be at the Place de la Concorde. The vista across the vast square—the Eiffel Tower, the stone obelisk brought from Egypt, and the grand buildings round its edge as the sky turns pink and blue is a moment to remember. Even the rushing traffic is softened by the light. Cross to the Champs Elysees and stroll the boulevard toward the Arc de Triomphe. If you’re in Paris during the Christmas season, the 5 P.M. switching on of the twinkling white lights beaded throughout the trees is even more profound.
Musee Maillol
Centre Pompidou It is out of the way, and make sure you know how to get there before you leave. But when you reach the hill top, Sacre Coeur is a vision of pure white, a basilica in the sky. It is bliss. We had a lagniappe moment near Christmas when we arrived at dusk, and the choir of nuns was singing. They sounded like a troupe of angels God sent to earth and looked the part in their stark white habits and black headdresses, in an enormous and ornate wedding cake. Paris was laid out in front of us, a marvel to behold. 18th Arrondissement. Metro: Anvers, Abbesses, Château-Rouge, Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Sacre Coeur Another special museum for us is the Musée Rodin. The 18th Century mansion resides on a distinguished street of French government offices (with lots of serious-looking guards) and embassies. As grand as they are, the Rodin and its glorious garden is the best of the best. The beauty glows. It is an oasis within Paris, and Rodin’s work is an eau de vie. Camille Claudel is represented as well. I cannot help but think of her suffering. 7th Arrondissement. Metro: Varenne. Musée Rodin |
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Copyright © 2005 James Morgan & Beth Arnold. All rights reserved
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At
first glance, the Centre Pompidou isn’t so attractive. But watching the
skyline of Paris unfold (especially at twilight), while you ride the exterior
escalator to the top, can change anyone’s mind. The view of Paris is bewitching.
When we arrived in 2002, the Max Beckmann show was a feast, and the permanent
collection inside is savory. If the weather is sunny and warm, the outdoor café would
be a fine place to have lunch. 4th Arrondissement. Metro: Rambuteau and Hotel-de-Ville.